Border Crossing
Istanbul is the place to get the best of anything in Turkey. People are moving to Istanbul for jobs and leaving rural areas. Kurds are working for Kurds whereas other Turks consider themselves Turks first then recognize where they came from. Turks are a mixed culture with no native peoples. There is an obstacle to Euro Union for Turkey that seems to be an obstacle all over.
Today it started to rain just as we got up at 6:30. We had a steep hill climb out of camp for 6 or 7K to the border. The border crossing was easy enough and we didn't have to wait long. We had to pay for visas for the first time, but the advantage was for the Americans here not Canadians - $20 vs 45 euros for Canadians.
The problem then was that the rain came down much heavier and we were all loathing to leave the nice warm building for the cold wet foggy outdoors. It was at high elevation however, so there was the possibility of better weather down below. So finally we bundled up and hit the road for a too fast cold downhill. Soon we could pedal with force however, and we began to warm up.
The rain slowed and then stopped as we pulled out of the trees and, fantastically, the sun came out. Before long jackets came off and we were enjoying some great downhills and rollers with a tailwind. And in only 50K for the day we were in Kirklareli.
We met the lunch van at the hotel where Jenny still provided veggie subs and fruit for lunch. Craig had our rooms set up, bags out waiting, and gave us keys as we came in. What a great crew we have!! The hotel is a nice two star in center of town - Hotel Grand Sampiyon Hersekli. Apparently Mr. Hersekli the owner, was a grand champion greco roman wrestler around 1952 to 1954.
I went out to walk around with Sheila, Walter, Lincoln and Chuck. Found a delicious round bread with roasted sesame seeds on it, also some fantastic baklava, and, of course, ice cream cones.
Then we met our tour guides. Thanks to a chance meting with Neyar(sp?), his brother, and his friend Cem this may turn into one of the best off days yet. They introduced themselves as British but are from here originally. They heard us speaking English and asked where we were from and it went on from there.
Walter and Lincoln asked if there was a Turkish bath so that's where we went first after going through a small bazaar on the way. They got us in to see the building but it was being renovated. So then we went to the mosque next door - officially connected to the bath. Both are several centuries old. Next door was a store selling traditional halvah candy and we got free samples of several varieties. On back through a pedestrian area past the official mayor's residence and the local army compound and back to a cafe for some Turkish tea - good with sugar.
Lincoln played backgammon with Neyar. It's hard to believe but I think these guys are just nice guys with time on their hands while visiting back home. Really great.
After the tour above we went back to the hotel where Neyar met with Shanny, Henry and the police and helped organize a police escort for us into Istanbul - an invaluable service for us.
Then Cem took us to the bus station to help set up a trip to Edirne tomorrow. In the end he negotiated a personal tour just for us for 300 Turkish lira for as many of our group as want to go. If his dad(his current employer) let's him off he may come along. Jim speaks English very well and has been a hotel concierge 5 years in Istanbul and Dubai. He said he's back here now because he prefers to hear the birds, see the green, and have fresh air and be around friendly people. This town is only 50,000 and the guys seem to know a lot of people here.
We all can't believe our luck in meeting these guys. Tomorrow I'll let you know if it's real or a dream.
Jenny and (I think I heard Henry) fixed a great veggie chili stew, marinated pork, mediterranean salad, bread and wine for dinner. And our new friends joined us for dinner.
Others are internetting or partying tonight. I'm hitting the sack early for insurance. That is as long as the evening prayers, or whatever, broadcast from the mosque speakers don't last too long(8:45pm).
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Posted September 20, 2005 by Tour Participant
Turkey |
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