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Istanbul!

a well deserved drink at the end of the tour

The Orient Express has arrived in Istanbul!  After almost 4000 km and 50 days together our crossing of Europe from west to east is complete!

The last week of our adventure had some superb highlights such as the Black Sea coast of Bulgaria, a very unique “Hospital Hotel” in Malko Tarnovo, the first road signs pointing towards Istanbul, a festival ongoing in our rest-day town of Vize, Turkey where everyone enjoyed the local hospitality and were able to get used to the tranquil pace of small town Turkish life.  

The last days of the tour were not without the similar challenges of hills and heat but these Orient Express cyclists are hardened athletes by this point in time and managed to complete each day with relative ease, and excitement at being so close to the finish line.

Our last day of riding took us to the edge of the Marmara Sea.  There we relaxed, put our bikes aside and sat together to watch a slide show of images from the last 2 months.  The next day, after a short transfer to Istanbul, we hit the town and enjoyed our farewell dinner together in the heart of the city where too many restaurants, bars, cafes and music venues await the curious soul.

Hats off to all our participants who made the Tour a success; with their ambitious goal of crossing a continent, their stamina to achieve it, their ability to adapt to the varying cultures/climates/conditions along the way, and most of all for their support of each other which of course in the end is what makes any journey a success.  Congratulations and keep on cycling!

Final photos from the tour are now online here!

Posted July 26, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
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Heat wave


There were days in the beginning of the Orient Express when it seemed it would never stop raining. Well, it did. Now we have a seemingly endless stretch of sunny hot days. Of course this makes us yearn for the cool overcast days of Western Europe.

There is one place though where the heat is much appreciated, and that is in the Black Sea Resort town of Varna, Bulgaria. It’s our second oasis destination since leaving Bucharest. The first is the amazing locale of Rousse where we stay right on the Danube river at the Hotel Luliaka. The pool was well used by our cyclists and many locals enjoying a lazy Friday. It’s fascinating to see the Danube again after last crossing it in Budapest. The river is more wild as it travels in between Bulgaria and Romania, with it’s sandy shores directly merging into the thick foliage and trees.

From Rousse it was two hard days of cycling on roads that cover too many gradual hills to count; many described these days as being “solid”. It’s the point in the trip where Istanbul seems very close but each day of cycling still presents it’s own challenges. On arriving in Varna the Black Sea calls out to be swam in, its warm and calm waters in the summer are idyllic. The beach is certainly crowded and a bit chaotic but in this high season of summer travel it’s to be expected.

The road ahead will take us south on the Black Sea coast and then into Turkey and our final rest day in Vize. Despite the heat and the hills we’ll all try to savor these last days on our adventurous crossing of Europe!

Posted July 19, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
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Eating in Istanbul

by discospace:flikr

A cyclist is often inspired to pedal through a tough day of hills, rough roads, bad weather or whatever else may slow their speed or challenge their morale by the thought of a meal at days’ end.  Its’ importance goes beyond the required calorie intake or nutritional necessities.  At it’s heart a great meal is a moment in time where the cyclist doesn’t feel the aches of their body, can’t remember the frustration of the roads’ ceaseless obstacles; and is allowed to be nurtured by the food while surrounded by their fellows.

In this spirit we wish to introduce to our future Tour cyclists the historically, culturally and most important, gastronomically blessed city of Istanbul.

Istanbul is at the heart of many of our Tours.  It’s the destination of our European Tour the Orient Express, the destination of our Spotlight on Turkey Tour, and the beginning of the grand Silk Route Expedition.

Discovering Istanbul is a process best done without hurry.  To begin, I suggest hitting one of the city’s meyhanes that dot the metropolis.  Meyhane, literally translated as “drink house”, is more than a bar.  It is more an institution of drink, mezes, culture, politics and music.  Raki is the beverage of choice, an un-sweetened anise alcoholic drink that clouds white when mixed with water.  The mezes on offer at meyhanes vary but you most likely will find the ingredients involved being white cheese, yoghurt, aubergine, artichokes, rice-stuffed vine leaves, peppers and even a calves brain if you’re feeling high minded.  If you are saving your appetite for later then try a snack of roasted chickpeas, called leblebi. It happens that Ataturk, the father of the Turkish Republic, ate these zealously.  If you look around the meyhane chances are you’ll see his portrait staring back at you with envy.

When you’re done with the meyhanes it may be time to hit an Ocak Basi; which one could translate as, “by the fire” This is where that cavernous appetite built up cycling can be filled.  Endless skewers of lamb meat, beef, calves’ liver, Adana kebab (which is a mixture of lamb, fat from the lambs’ own tail and red pepper flakes) are placed over the charcoal grill not far from your table.  Served with grilled peppers, tomatoes, onions, a side of bitterly fresh arugula and thin lavas bread to help clean up every bit on your plate.  These places are bustling and loud with reverie.

The nature of a cyclist leads them to the tried and true eating establishments frequented by the local populace.  On any day of the year in Istanbul if you ride your bike to the Galata Bridge, which crosses the Golden Horn connecting Old Istanbul with Beyoglu, you can watch the fisherman casting their lines into the cold waters below, pulling up endless little whitefish.  If you head to the lower level of the bridge you’ll see a walkway, along which small restaurants will be selling Balik Ekmek = “fish sandwich”, this is a belly pleasing treat; grilled Mackerel in fresh crusty bread.  Throw in a cold beer and you’ve really caught the essence of it all.

To help you with you with your culinary adventures in Istanbul, check out these links below.  Enjoy.
 
Chef in Istanbul

Istanbul Eats

Posted October 31, 2010 by Miles MacDonald
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We're here!!



After 7 very fun and exciting weeks of cycling across Europe, the Orient Express cyclists successfully completed their journey by cycling to the shore of the Bosphoros in Istanbul!  Our last days greeted us with very high temperatures and lots of hills, but nothing would stand in the way of the determined set of riders, who have continually looked out for each throughout the trip, and everyone made sure that no one would be left behind.  In the early afternoon of July 18th the group boarded the Naim Baba boat, which then took them on a pleasant cruise down the Bosphorous towards the Ortakoy district of Istanbul and our hotel.  While sipping beers on deck and feeling the wind against them, the cyclists reminisced over the time spent together these last months, and perhaps dreamt of future cycling tours that they may endeavor to partake in.  So, warm wishes to all our Orient Express participants, and a thorough congratulations on cycling the entirety of Europe.  Until the next ride…

Posted July 18, 2009 by Miles MacDonald
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The Grand Finale…

This was my third time guiding a group of cyclist between Paris and Istanbul, and this was a finish to remember. In years past we have convoyed the last 23 km down the Bosphorus into Ortakoy. Istanbul and its suburbs were not designed with cyclists in mind. But this year we arrived in style.

The final stage of the tour was a 52 km ride through the lush rolling hills of Turkey. We collected all 41 riders and staff where the hills descended to meet the sea. As each rider rolled across the finish line there were hugs, tears, and photos to commemorate this monumental achievement. Over the last 50 days these two wheeled adventurers traversed 4000 km across eight European countries. When all were present and after quick feed we boarded our fine vessel, the Naim Baba, and sailed into this spectacular international metropolis. While battling traffic its much more difficult to appreciate the magnificence of the waterfront. But this year we were kick’in it on the upper deck of our private boat embracing our cycling comrades with drinks in hand. The voyage lead us past castles, mosques and affluent real estate of the world’s rich and famous. From our dock in Ortakoy it was only a 2 min walk through the pedestrian mall to our hotel to unpack all the gear for one final time. With a group of fifty checking in and parking bikes simultaneously is chaotic, but the madness was short-lived.

Our final banquet dinner was in Taksim at a bizarre restaurant garden, overgrown with lemon trees. The evening was filled with a fabulous feast, speeches and a slide show to reminisce on this epic journey, truly a grand finale.

Many of the participants are staying in Istanbul for several days to explore the history and culture of this city which has been the capital of several empires. Others had a rushed departure, but a select few will continue to peddle east all the way to Beijing and I wish them nothing but sunshine and tailwinds. The conclusion of these tours invokes a contradiction of emotions; pride, for a monumental personal achievement and sorrow to say goodbye to new friends who we’ve shared the moments with. I look forward to the next time our paths will cross.

Til then, keep the rubber side down.

Posted July 22, 2008 by Randy Pielsticker
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The Grand Finale…

This was my third time guiding a group of cyclist between Paris and Istanbul, and this was a finish to remember. In years past we have convoyed the last 23 km down the Bosphorus into Ortakoy. Istanbul and its suburbs were not designed with cyclists in mind. But this year we arrived in style. The final stage of the tour was a 52 km ride through the lush rolling hills of Turkey. We collected all 41 riders and staff where the hills descended to meet the sea. As each rider rolled across the finish line there were hugs, tears, and photos to commemorate this monumental achievement. Over the last 50 days these two wheeled adventurers traversed 4000 km across eight European countries. When all were present and after quick feed we boarded our fine vessel, the Naim Baba, and sailed into this spectacular international metropolis. While battling traffic its much more difficult to appreciate the magnificence of the waterfront. But this year we were kick’in it on the upper deck of our private boat embracing our cycling comrades with drinks in hand. The voyage lead us past castles, mosques and affluent real estate of the world’s rich and famous. From our dock in Ortakoy it was only a 2 min walk through the pedestrian mall to our hotel to unpack all the gear for one final time. With a group of fifty checking in and parking bikes simultaneously is chaotic, but the madness was short-lived. Our final banquet dinner was in Taksim at a bizarre restaurant garden, overgrown with lemon trees. The evening was filled with a fabulous feast, speeches and a slide show to reminisce on this epic journey, truly a grand finale. Many of the participants are staying in Istanbul for several days to explore the history and culture of this city which has been the capital of several empires. Others had a rushed departure, but a select few will continue to peddle east all the way to Beijing and I wish them nothing but sunshine and tailwinds. The conclusion of these tours invokes a contradiction of emotions; pride, for a monumental personal achievement and sorrow to say goodbye to new friends who we’ve shared the moments with. I look forward to the next time our paths will cross. Til then, keep the rubber side down.

Posted July 22, 2008 by Randy Pielsticker
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Home stretch

It has definitely been an easier trip for me the second time around; not worrying about getting lost and knowing what to expect certainly makes it much easier to plan for what is coming.

Feeding 50 people from a campsite is always challenging though, regardless. Whether it is standing over a stove in the hot sun, or trying to source out commodities that people in the group have become accustomed to and which simply aren’t available in each country we pass through. It makes it all worth it to see the smiles and get that handful of ‘thank you’s’ at the end of the day.

So here we are 2 days from the finish and I’m trying to figure out what to make for dinner tomorrow night as some sort of grand finale. Maybe a buffet, or a spit-roasted lamb, I think there is a fish-monger up the street…I should probably get back to work. Til then.

-Jonathan Shepheard

Posted July 18, 2008 by Guest Author
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Home stretch

It has definitely been an easier trip for me the second time around; not worrying about getting lost and knowing what to expect certainly makes it much easier to plan for what is coming. Feeding 50 people from a campsite is always challenging though, regardless. Whether it is standing over a stove in the hot sun, or trying to source out commodities that people in the group have become accustomed to and which simply aren't available in each country we pass through. It makes it all worth it to see the smiles and get that handful of 'thank you's' at the end of the day. So here we are 2 days from the finish and I'm trying to figure out what to make for dinner tomorrow night as some sort of grand finale. Maybe a buffet, or a spit-roasted lamb, I think there is a fish-monger up the street...I should probably get back to work. Til then. Jonathan Shepheard

Posted July 18, 2008 by Guest Author
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Orient Express Expedition finishes in Istanbul

Yesterday we rolled into Istanbul, the final destination of our 4000km cycling tour. It was a beautiful stage, only 65 km but very hilly. The route led us through several small villages and on the crest of each hill you would catch a glimpse of the sea or the city in the distance. It was an exciting road to ride as it twisted and climbed and then descended to our gathering point in Sariyer, a suburb on the Bosphorus. From this point we rode in convoy the last 20 km into the capital. Coming into the city along the water offered spectacular scenery; castles, fisherman, yachts and the city sprawling through the hills on the far shore. In comparison to the other European cities we’ve visited I was amazed by how green Istanbul is. We finished our ride at the Ortakoy Princess Hotel where we had some celebratory bevies before we unpacked the support trucks for the final time and got checked in. The hotel is in a great location. It was just a short walk down to the waterfront where we hosted our banquet dinner. We were on a rooftop patio with great views of the boats, fireworks and crowds of people enjoying the evening. We shared stories, toasted our successes and then headed out to visit other local establishments. Although this tour has many sectional riders who only ride a part of the route, there is a core group who have been together from Paris to Istanbul. Watching the dynamics change over the course of two months is always intriguing, as people learn so much about each other, build incredible bonds with complete strangers and then head off in their own directions. Its not always the destination but the journey which creates the experience of an expedition of this extent. Even the greatest experience is meaningless unless you have someone to share it with. Only our fellow cyclists from the Orient Express 2007 will ever be able to relate to our stories and memories of this incredible trek. I hope our paths will cross again. Until then, keep the rubber side down! Sunshine and Tailwinds…

Posted July 30, 2007 by Randy Pielsticker
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UPDATE FROM KIRKLARELI

Welcome to Turkey.  We have reached the country of our final destination. Although I have never been here before it seems so familiar. I think I’m having flashbacks from Egypt. From camping at the local football stadium, the broadcast prayers to Allah, to interactions with the regional cycling association, things here are very similar. I am always amazed at how a political boundary often marks a dramatic change in geography.  It's not just a random line on a map. Ten km before the Turkish border we were traveling through rolling hills of dense hardwood forest and ten km past, the terrain became extremely arid. Dry hillsides of scrubby bushes, blowing dust clouds and geckos running past your front wheel. We are now enjoying the final rest day of the tour in the small town of Kirklareli. This is not a major tourist destination but right now the cyclists need rest more than anything else. The heat wave they have endured during the past 3 stages has left them exhausted. Two days ago the temperature hit 48 degrees. But as tonight is refreshingly cool I believe the heat wave has finally broken. When we left Varna we continued to follow the coast of the Black Sea for the first day. We passed through several touristy beach towns; Ozbos, Bryag and Nesebar. Nesebar was a strange place, an ancient city that has changed hands many times. It has been occupied by the Thracians, Romans, Byzantines and the Bulgarian Empire. But in each takeover the city was never destroyed. As a strategic naval port and thriving fishing village it has a history dating back over 4000 years. About 2000 years ago geologic events caused a dramatic rise in the water level of the sea and although the ruins I saw were impressive there are many more beneath the waves, making it a popular scuba destination. Today the city has incorporated a bizarre mix of old and new. Modern homes built on ancient foundations and historic cathedrals neighboured by tacky souvenir shops and gelato stands. Our second riding day took us inland to the town of Malko Tarnovo, a small border town with very limited facilities. But luckily we stayed just down the street from a bar with a fantastic swimming pool to help us beat the heat. Our ride into Turkey was short and the border crossing was expensive, but relatively hassle free. Now its only three riding stages and 250 km to our finish line on the Bosphorus. We have been joined by Henry and Miles who are here preparing for the inaugural Silk Route Expedition. There are a couple of  Orient Express riders who are going to continue on with them from Istanbul right across Asia to Beijing, China…. CRAZY!

Posted July 26, 2007 by Randy Pielsticker
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