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What the Heck is hairtail? A Chinese Food Decoder for 2012 Silk Route Cyclists




 
For our first few weeks in China a lot of our meals will be in local restaurants and hotels.  When we eat as a group in China we will order for the entire group.  However when you are out cycling and want to stop at a restaurant you will need to order on your own. 

In larger towns and cities restaurants may have english menus or pictures of the food on the wall that you can point too. You can also walk around the restaurant and point at what other people are eating, a slightly embarrassing but effective method of ordering. In many of the small villages we cycle though you will have to make due with hand signals and making animal noises to place your order.
 
Smartphone owners can always use one of the travel apps we recommended in a previous post but others might find this food decoder handy.
 
Our local guide, Zabi (pictured above in the green jacket), provided us with this food decoder to help make the ordering process a bit easier.  Print it out and carry it with you on tour, I think you'll find it comes in pretty handy. 



I've reached out to Zabi to find out what 'agaric' and 'hairtail' are, if you know please tell us in the comments.  


 

Posted February 02, 2012 by Paul McManus
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A Giant List of Tips in No Particular Order for 2012 Silk Route Riders




I learned a lot of things on my scouting trip to China.  Here is a random assortment you may find helpful if you are joining us on our Silk Route Bike Tour.  These tips obviously apply to China. I'll share some tips for the other 6 countries we'll be riding through later on.

-Shanghai has two airports.  One is largely domestic, the other largely international (but not exclusively).  Be sure you know which one you fly into because they are 30 km apart.
 
-Most of our hotels in China do not have laundry service.  Local laundries require 24 hours to wash your clothes. 

-Don’t ever stop in middle of a road/bike path, unless you are fond of being run over by an electric scooter.

-Bring a bell or horn.  A really loud one. Also bring mirror and handlebar bag that has a map case.

-Wean yourself off of coffee before coming.  Get used to drinking tea. 



-Carry the name of each hotel we stay in written in Mandarin with you each day. Believe me, at some point this will save your ass.  Especially if you follow the advice at the end of this list.

-Internet in most of the hotels we stay in is cable only, no wifi, so iPad and Mac Air users are out of luck

-If you enter your hotel and the lights don’t work it is because you didn’t insert your key card into the automatic cut off switch at the door.
 
-Hotels charge for dirty towels and sheets.  A lot.  They will check your room thoroughly before you check out. So don't clean your bike with a towel and don't steal anything.



-SIM cards and phones are cheap in Shanghai, you should plan on getting one.

-Every time you take a cab take a picture of the cab’s ID and phone number, just in case you forget something.

-You will have to carry your bags upstairs at most hotels in China so pack accordingly.

-Always carry toilet paper. (this is a good rule for all our tours actually).

-If you don’t like noodles, I hope you like rice.



-Drink bottled water or boiled water.  A lot of the water is not safe to drink.

-Learn to use chopsticks. Long chopsticks were easier for me to use than short ones. Wooden ones were easier to use than plastic or metal. I've heard the reusable plastic chopsticks restaurants use are rarely cleaned well so its best to use the disposable ones or bring your own.

-Buy a filter mask for dust and smog (if you have allergies or asthma take extra precautions)

-No skinny tires.  All tires should be 28mm or wider.  You've been warned.

And Finally: Get lost! It’s fun and China is very safe and fun to explore.  Just get found again before I have to come looking for you!

Well there you go.  I told you they were assorted!  More coherent info about preparing for the Silk Route Bike Tour coming soon, including a food decoder and some awesome language tips. 

Been to China?  Have some tips of your own?  Love to hear them in the comments.

Paul


Images via Wikipedia


 

Posted December 31, 2011 by Paul McManus
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6 Quick Links: Silk Route 2012




I read a lot of things about the Silk Route these days.  Here is a selection of a few posts from my favorite travel bloggers and one bonus link I think is just a neat idea.  If you like what you read, please let these bloggers know in the comments.

Turkish Recipies -
From the Expat blog Turkeys for Life.  These guys post some great pics and stories with insights from their lives in Turkey.http://www.turkeysforlife.com/2011/12/turkish-food-recipes-2011-favourites.html

Tehran Markets, in Pictures -
From Angela Corrias at Chasing the Unexpectedhttp://www.chasingtheunexpected.com/2011/10/tehran-in-pictures-local-markets-and-sweets-shops/

Beautiful Panoramic Photo of Shah-e-Cheragh Mosque in Shiraz, Iran
 - from Uncornered Market, check out all their posts, the pictures are fantastic!http://www.uncorneredmarket.com/2011/12/shah-cheragh-mosque-shiraz-panorama/


           Karakol Lake - photo by Christine McDonald

Cycling the Pamir Highway -
10 Questions with Christine McDonald on Travelling Two's blog.  Great stories and advice from people who have been there and done that. http://travellingtwo.com/resources/10questions/pamir-highway

Video of Turpan, China
 - Not a travel blog but a series of videos from the Silk Road Music Project.  Part 10 of a series. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sEWIKW15Ss&feature=youtube_gdataBonus Link:

The Worlds Cheapest (and lightest?) Multi Tool for bike repair - DIY -
http://www.biketinker.com/2011/projects/worlds-cheapest-multi-tool/

Posted December 29, 2011 by Paul McManus
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Black Boogers and Shaolin Priests




Right now I am wearing gloves in my hotel room just outside Dengfeng, China. The 70 CNY ($10) hotel we’ve chosen for the tour might be lacking a few of the finer things (like heat) but it does have one advantage, it is located 300 meters from the gate of the famous Shaolin Temple, birthplace of KungFu. 

I’m here scouting the new route of the 2012 Silk Route Bike Tour.  In 2012 the tour will run East to West (a much better direction) and it will start in Shanghai and finish in Istanbul. 

Fortunately for us when we bike through here on tour in 2012 the weather will be warm so the heat will not be a problem.  And the hotel is not without its charms.  It is run by a very nice Chinese family and has hot showers and internet.  The restaurant downstairs serves a wicked stir fired rabbit, complete with paws and face  (it’s surprisingly hard to eat a rabbit when you’re looking at its cooked face). 



Why do Monks a Priests Always put their temples at the top of a Mountain?

The ride into Dengfeng is a long one, about 150 km with a few good hills to finish the day (I know how much riders just love it when camp is at the top of a long climb).  The Temple is surrounded by mountains, a welcome relief from the rest of eastern china, which has been pathetically flat thus far.  The Shaolin Temple is located only 300 meters from our hotel and riders will have plenty of time to visit it in the morning before our short ride of 60 km to our rest day in Luoyang

Figuring I could see the Shaolin Temple when I return on tour, I took some time to climb to another nearby temple, the Songshan Temple.  The hotel owner told me it was difficult to get to but really that only made we want to do it more.  In my experience the more difficult something is to get to, the more rewarding the experience usually is.



Stair Master

A six kilometer long flight of stairs leads to the temple.  It was tough.  My guide dropped off after about a km of climbing.  I told him I would only go a little further then come back, I think we both new I was lying.  I wanted to reach the top. 

After about 2 kms the route begins to hug the mountain side, dip under rock ledges and cross some impressive gorges.   I felt a little like Frodo climbing to Mordor, save for the big fiery eye at the top. I was alone on the steps at seven in the morning and for two hours I climbed without seeing or hearing anyone but the wind and birds (a real treat after two weeks in China, which is never quiet). 

At the top the Temple was under renovation.  The grounds were full of stone cutters and carpenters hard at work in the chill air.  The temple itself was pretty impressive.  But more impressive were these guys

In the video it’s hard to see, but what you are witnessing is a group of about 15 men trying to drag what must be a 500 kg brass bell up to the top of the mountain.  And all the while that they are trying to heave this thing up one step at a time other men are passing them with 50 kg sacks of sand on their heads!  Made me feel a little silly for being winded at all. 



500 Yards of Foulness

"Andy crawled to freedom through five hundred yards of shit-smelling foulness I can't even imagine. Or maybe I just don't want to." -  Morgan Freeman in Shawshank Redemption

Before reaching Dengfeng riders will have to cycle through the city of Gao Zhou and I imagine that quote will resonate with them more than ever. 

Gao Zhou is perhaps one of the dirtiest cities I have ever visited in my life.  The streets are muddy and the air is filled with cement and coal dust from half dozen mines and factories that surround the city.  Everything is coated in a thick grey layer of dust. The landscape has been stripped bare in China’s search for resources to build the infrastructure to support 20% of the world’s population.  The dry air, mixed with all that dust gives you some pretty epic boogers. 

But riding through the city will only take an hour of so and soon the mountains that surround the Temples near Dengfeng will come into view and the road will improves. You climb into the mountains past centuries old temples and parks and up to the Shaolin Temple where a giant statue of a Monk greets you and humbles you.

All in all, I think it will be a pretty good day of riding. 

Here are some more photos of the area:
















Posted December 15, 2011 by Paul McManus
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Woof! Woof! A dog's life in Turkmenistan.




The rather eccentric leader of Turkmenistan, Saparmurat Niyazov, (who renamed months of the year after himself and members of his family) may have passed away in 2006 but his successor, Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov, is staying in character by keeping a close eye on the country's dog population.



The statue of Saparmurat Niyazov (pictured above) was designed so that his face turned and followed the sun on its journey across the sky.

Visit this intriguing country on a bicycle by joining the 2012 Silk Route.

Thanks to Paul Davison for sending us this story.

Posted December 09, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
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What Can a Venture Capitlist Teach You About Samarkand?




Most people in Samarkand, including emperor Timur could not read these as they were illiterate.

As it turns out quite a lot!

Especially if he was just there, as our guest author Ashok Vaish was.  He recently visited Samarkand with his family and his blog does a wonderful job of outlining some of the history and events that have impacted the city. He also highlights his words with some very nice photos.  Enjoy!

Samarkand

by Ashok Vaish

Samarkand has been at the center of many empires. Here’s a list for the history buff:

The Achaemenids (6th – 4th Century B.C.)
The Greeks with the conquest by Alexander the Great
(4th Cen. B. C. on)
Kushan  - A Greco-Indian Buddhist empire.
(1st – 3rd Century A.D.)
Sassanid – a Persian dynasty. Zoroastrian, Buddhist
(3rd-7th Century)
Arab – briefly part of the Caliphate after muslim conquest in eighth century.
Samanid – a Persian, Shia empire (9th and 10th Century)
Turkic Sunni Muslim rule from the Aral Sea kingdom of Khwarezm (11th -13th Cen.)
Completely destroyed, burned and looted by Genghis Khan (March 1220)
Rebuilt by Timur Lang, a descendant of Genghis
(14th Century)
Timur Lang and his dynasty (14th – 16th Century)
Uzbeks, Bukhara Emirates (16th – 18th Century)
Tsarist Russia and Soviet colonization. (19th & 20th Century)
Independent Uzbekistan (1991 – present)

Timur Lang’s monuments define Samarkand today. They have been restored somewhat from the ravages of time and violent cultures since the 14th century when they regally dominated the Samarkand skyline.

Timur’s Mausoleum



Timur ruled from 1370 – 1405. He saw himself as Genghis Khan’s heir and was a great conqueror in the Mongol tradition: a brutal destroyer, sacker and looter across Asia. But he was also a builder of a beautiful city and a patron of the arts. In 1404 he lost his favorite grandson in a battle and was devastated. Timor, the  murderer of more than a million people, is said to have cried for two days. He built this mausoleum in memory of his grandson. He is buried here too along with his other descendants.

The tombs inside the Mausoleum

There is a famous curse attached to opening Timur’s tomb: A sign is carved on it warning that whoever would dare disturb the tomb would bring unspeakable horror onto his land. The tomb lay unopened for 500 years.  On June 19, 1941 a Russian expeditionist, Mikhail Gerasimov, opened the tomb. Three days later he learned of the Nazi invasion of Russia which resulted in 30 million Russians being killed!
Other things to See in Samarkand:
Registan Square

Registan Square, Samarkand



This was the center of the city of Samarkand, built in desert motifs and consisted of places of worship and public discourse. It was a great bustling place with colleges teaching philosophy, math and astronomy as well as a silk route bazaar with eclectic wares from across Timur’s empire – from India to Persia and beyond.
Bibi Khanum’s Mosque

Timur built this mosque in memory of his wife, Bibi Khanum, in 1399 after he returned from his Indian campaign, where he sacked and looted Delhi, India, because “the sultanate there was too tolerant toward its Hindu subjects”.

He brought back more than 50,000 prisoners and 95 elephants who helped build this mosque with Indian architectural elements. Timur’s great grandson, Babur conquered India in 1526 founding the Moghul dynasty which ruled until 1847.

A huge stone Koran dominates the center of the square.

The whole complex is being restored with Russian assistance, a process that began in Soviet times.

Shah-e-Zinda Tombs



This is a beautiful necropolis not far from the Bibi Khanum mosque, where legend has it that Kusam ibn Abbas, prophet Mohammed’s cousin is buried. He came to Samarkand in the seventh century to preach Islam and was murdered by the Zoroastrians. His tomb was regarded for a long time as a pilgrimage site, equivalent to Mecca for those who could not afford the journey to Arabia.

Samarkand’s Bazaar



A bustling market of delights in Samarkand. Colorful dresses, scarves and headwear distinguish the vendors of fruits, vegetables, almonds and black sweet raisins.

Potatoes, potatoes.. selling New World food on the Old Silk Route

Big Thanks to Ashok for writing this wonderful post and sharing it with us! 

Related Links:

Info about our 12,000 km Silk Route Bike Tour from Shanghai to Istanbul:

http://tourdafrique.com/tours/silkroute/overview

An explanation of Confirmation Bias by one of my favorite blogs, You Are Not So Smart:

http://youarenotsosmart.com/2010/06/23/confirmation-bias/

Link to the original blog post by Venture Capitalist Ashok Vaish:

http://ayecapitalist.com/2011/10/21/samarkand-an-oasis-of-exotic-delights-on-the-old-silk-road/#comments

Posted November 18, 2011 by Paul McManus
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Amasya




The rest day in Amasya has been nice.  In Safranbolu we caught up on all the pre-tour preparations we were unable to take care of in Istanbul so this rest day there was not much to do which gave us all a chance to relax and sight see a bit without feeling rushed or pushing ourselves too hard.  The ride into town was smooth and mostly downhill for a change.  

The city, once ruled by Alexander the Great,  is located in a valley surrounded by high rock walls and has a good size river that runs thru it.  There is a boardwalk that meanders along the river with vendors every few hundred meters selling Maras (Turkish Ice Cream), grilled corn, potato skins, slushies and other treats.  Above the old Ottoman houses on the West side of the river, high up in the rock cliff are the remains of a castle and tombs from the rule of Pontus.  Pontus ruled until around 47 BC when the Romans took the city, along with all of Anatolia.  After the Romans, the city was ruled by the Byzantines, the Seljuks, and the Mongols.  Amasya is also the birthplace of the world’s first geographer, Strabo.  I’m not much of a history buff, nor am I very sentimental, but wandering the city armed with the little bit of history I could glean from the local museum, tourist maps and guide books it feels pretty special to be here. 

Today Amasya is quite modern and seems to be a destination city for people from all over Turkey, a sort of romatic getaway.  Couples walk together on the boardwalk, climb up to see the tombs, relax in the hamam (separately of course) and dine in quiet restaurants that overlook the river.  The streets are lined with small shops selling everything from electronics to hardware and fresh fish and vegetables.  No Walmarts or Carrefours have robbed the city of its charm.  Let’s hope it stays that way. 


Posted May 31, 2010 by Paul McManus
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The Gift




I only met him for a few minutes.  I was setting up my tent on a hillside just before the town of Ormanli.  He was obviously on his way home from school, wearing a navy blue school uniform with a tie hanging loosely around his neck.  He walked over to watch me set up my tent.  He spoke a little English and I spoke a (very) little Turkish.  He liked football and asked if we could play (we were camping in the middle of the soccer field after all).  I said I could, knowing full well that I would be leaving in an hour to scout a new route for the next day.  But I know how to say “OK” (Tamam) in Turkish and I don’t know how to say “ Sorry I’d love to play with you but I have to drive to our next campsite to check the route”.  I figured some of the riders or other staf would be around to play later on.  I finished setting up my tent and he waved goodbye, say again “play football?”  “Tamam” I replied and waved goodbye “ Gule Gule” – go with smiles.  

I returned to camp after scouting late that evening.  Ricardo was still awake and we prepared the next days rider meeting together.  As we finished he got up and said he had something for me.  Returning from the van he held up and old blue soccer jersey with the name of a Black Sea football club on it.  “A young boy brought this here this afternoon and said to give it to Paul” It was a touching gift from someone I had only me briefly.  Another example of the friendliness and hospitality of Turkey. 


Posted May 28, 2010 by Paul McManus
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A lineup of pigeons outside KFC

Lanzhou presents many of the amenities which Western China does not possess. One of those amenities is fast food. Personally I have a difficult time heading near one of these establishments, though as a teenager I once ate 4 big macs. Anyway, it’s a frightening development that as we head into inner China we end up using KFC’s as landmarks in the directions we provide our cyclists. Clearly Colonel Sanders has made a mark.

One could surmise that it’s the familiarity the Chinese have with smoking pools of fat (i.e. a hot wok) and the jokingly secret process of KFC’s chicken spice/frying process (I suspect all eleven secret ingredients are MSG) Or perhaps one could configure that Chinese Fried Chicken would never have made an appropriate acronym. The frightening aspect is that the ever motivated, active Chinese are at peril of becoming rounder because of it, and more boring.

A certain conclusion occurred in my mind when I was wondering down a back alley in Lanzhou, searching for a steaming pot of black fungus with garlic shoots, or maybe roast sheep brains. A nameless steel door flung open, peering in I could tell it was a KFC inside, the droid like employee let slip a bag of garbage from his hands onto the alley floor, eroding chicken pieces slipped from the bags mouth. Without pause a group of pigeons (which had been mysteriously following me for sometime) lined up at the bag and with communist zeal, picked up one piece of chicken each and proceeded to fill their low altitude bellies.

The conclusion dissolved as the pigeons finished feeding and flapped their wings violently in my direction.


Posted October 27, 2008 by Miles MacDonald
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A LINE UP OF PIGEONS OUTSIDE KFC

Lanzhou presents many of the amenities which Western China does not possess. One of those amenities is fast food. Personally I have a difficult time heading near one of these establishments, though as a teenager I once ate 4 big macs. Anyway, it's a frightening development that as we head into inner China we end up using KFC's as landmarks in the directions we provide our cyclists. Clearly Colonel Sanders has made a mark. One could surmise that it's the familiarity the Chinese have with smoking pools of fat (i.e. a hot wok) and the jokingly secret process of KFC's chicken spice/frying process (I suspect all eleven secret ingredients are MSG) Or perhaps one could configure that Chinese Fried Chicken would never have made an appropriate acronym. The frightening aspect is that the ever motivated, active Chinese are at peril of becoming rounder because of it, and more boring. A certain conclusion occurred in my mind when I was wondering down a back alley in Lanzhou, searching for a steaming pot of black fungus with garlic shoots, or maybe roast sheep brains. A nameless steel door flung open, peering in I could tell it was a KFC inside, the droid like employee let slip a bag of garbage from his hands onto the alley floor, eroding chicken pieces slipped from the bags mouth. Without pause a group of pigeons (which had been mysteriously following me for sometime) lined up at the bag and with communist zeal, picked up one piece of chicken each and proceeded to fill their low altitude bellies. The conclusion dissolved as the pigeons finished feeding and flapped their wings violently in my direction.

Posted October 27, 2008 by Miles MacDonald
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