Namibia presents the Td’A riders with a problem. After the long, flat, brush filled stretches of Botswana gave us time to contemplate going home, even look forward to it, Namibia’s ever changing landscape reminds us of how much there is of Africa that we haven’t seen, and how much remains to be explored.
We’re at the point where 110km in a day seems a short day- a day where we have more than enough energy & enthusiasm to go and check out the highlight of today’s campsite- The Fish River Canyon. It’s the second largest canyon in the world, and it is gorgeous.
Some riders have just returned from the coast, equally impressed with their vacation from a vacation.
That is also the beauty of the end. More people realize that this doesn’t have to be an adrenaline charged nightmare where we begin to resent our bikes (though riding through thick and thin is definitely a pleasure for some). Some are wandering off for little bits to enjoy the tranquility of Africa, or to have some crazy adventure that they can keep to themselves, without sixty eyes on them.
The best is that we have come into our own. Everyone’s personality is fully shining through for better or worse. Because we have spent so much time with the brutal honesty of each other, there is now a sort of liberation to make this trip what you want, with no concern for the judgment of others, if you ride slowly, alone, or even run away for a few days.
We’re near the end, we’re in possibly the most beautiful country we’ve seen so far, and with that comes a feeling of bliss and being in the moment. Hopefully those moments slow down a bit for the next and final week.
Definition of my experience in Africa:
A concentrated time of being present in the moment...living the Td'A habitual style... a consistent energy for now.
Imagine just another day on the saddle. A mere 141km of rolling hills. It's never ‘just another day'. It will always require a constant focus to draw the force into one's legs throughout the duration. 174km yesterday and 160 km tomorrow. These people are skilled at what they do to grind the miles and feel the spirit of the rich cultures and the serene surroundings of the African outback for 11 weeks solid. The responses are modest; as such a slow and silent progress mustn't be so prominent and the energy becomes natural. But I see it. I observe the bodies growing strong and the motivations growing wide.
From desert to rock to corrugation, potholed gravel and switchback gorges. not only do they live it out, they take it on to endure a widening ability to thrive in it.
Lloyd Strong's shocking pace has been one of the most ‘fabulous' to observe. I remember the days of his enthusiastic call on the strenuous long kms. "I take it one peddle stroke at a time." Nowadays I can barely meet riding beside him because he is out of the saddle powering up the 50
th climb of the day with a smile from ear to ear.
Anne Gallagher's impressive ability to tackle her most dreaded...pushing through these winding foot hills amid the mountain pass. Her spirit high and lilting laughs still present as she embraces the bush life into the evening at camp.
Over the past few days it has been pleasing to see an increased involvement from the cyclists amongst the local communities. Scavenger hunting for random things brings unique encounters and humbling relations.My day was made perfectly balanced after eating catfish which the local people caught in the very area I rode today. Football played with young Zambians and a half pumpkin skin this evening. Wow these boys could jump higher than a roo in delight of seeing what James could do with the veggie and his feet.
Tonight the stars are out. What a treat to have clear skies again...will this be the end of the rain for a while?
Hands down this was the best day of riding yet. The vibrant energy from Bahar-Dar fueled my legs for every pedal rotation. Rolling paved hills lined with Eucalyptus & Acacia, busy villages busting with locals of all ages, market day & the hundreds slogged their goods on their bodies or on bamboo constructions lashed to the backs of their donkeys. Nothing but traditional clothing, curious faces & calls of “Salama!”, “Hello!”, “Where are you go?” and “Give me pen”. It echoed the whole 9 hour ride.
The stunning scenery & mild temperatures & bee catching birds were the saving grace. I managed to keep my pace through the 6 stones and 3 sticks that met my bum today. The sweet surprise from above- Rainstorms… what’s this? Africa? Then came the hail. It was then the skies opened up & the Ethiopian Gods threw stones as well.
Crazy contrasts happened today but I felt so content. I’ll go crawl into my tent now and wish for another beauty tomorrow.
100 kms of grinding from desert camp 3 to the Red Sea camp Safaga. Sweet and short felt the day for most, weary knees were the killers for others.
Patient riders were flexible today with route changes & pleasantly surprised upon arrival to camp…
Picture yourself hoping off the saddle finding tents pitched on the shore with many new friends chillaxing about sippin an authentic Egyptian Stella (the local brew).
What’s better? An open kitchen in the sun; manned by many wonderful people with a big pot of replenishing soup awaiting.
I wish to make a fuss over these amazing cooks collectively supplying us with delectable meals every evening - no fail. Whether it be vege or meat curry, spicy chickpea & veg with couscous, veal with potato, beet and coriander salad…it’s always so tasty and always served with pleasure. They’re loving the experience of shopping in the local markets for the hunger of the craziest cyclist in Africa...
Everyone here seems to be enjoying the style of life currently lived.
Love your dreams
