I was enjoying a couple fruit shakes today with a few of my fellow staff and it came up that we’re about two weeks away from hitting the halfway point of this little adventure called the TDA. I had to do the math, check my calendar and look at a map just to confirm it. It’s hard for me to grasp that our travelling circus has already rolled through Egypt, Sudan and in two days we’ll finish Ethiopia and hop the border into Kenya.



Trying to recall arriving in Cairo is difficult, it seems like it could have been years ago rather than six weeks. Time gets skewed out here. Ethiopia has flown by, it’s our longest stretch in any country on tour, I feel like we just got here but we’re almost leaving. Some days on the bike feel like they’re never going to end and some nights I’m positive I’ve only been asleep for an hour when really it was 10. Time and schedules are very important in keeping this show on the road but for me outside of the work side I rarely know what time it is, what day it is or what month we’re in. I measure the day by when I ate last and when I will be eating next.



Longer periods of time can be measured by a variety of methods; how skinny and tanned people have got, when you last had a shower or my favorite: how big the hole in my buddy Doug’s face is (the result of an incident involving a fast moving Doug, an Egyptian child with a stick and a slow moving car).Unfortunately it’s almost healed so I’ll have to find another gauge.
 


Thinking ahead to where we have to go yet is equally dizzying, Kenya in a couple of days, then Tanzania and Malawi to follow, Cape Town isn’t even on my radar. My little brain has a hard time thinking that far ahead; it’s got enough to handle with getting through today and planning for tomorrow. My stomach is more reliable it just told me dinner must be soon, I’ll let it keep track of time and give my brain a break.


   By Ciaran Hanrahan-Powers

A long time ago, when I was seven years old, I had a fight with my brother. We were living in a small village in Eastern Slovakia. We were in a grassy field and my older brother had had enough of me and walked  away. When he was twenty or thirty meters away, either because I was still yelling or he was just terribly frustrated with me, he picked up a small stone and threw it my direction. It landed on my head and I started bleeding profusely.

When I cycled through Ethiopia in our inaugural tour in 2003, I thought often about that incident, as little Ethiopian boys threw stones at me and the other cyclists. This was not my first trip in Ethiopia. I first arrived there during the great famine in 1984-5. Many people especially children died at that time.



As a kid during the summer, I and all my friends would lead our families' cows to pasture where we would play all day long, only to interrupt our games by chasing the cows whenever they wandered away. If that happened, we would throw stones at them whenever we saw the animals turning in wrong direction.

In 1991 I went to visit Canadian friends in Irian Jaya, Indonesia. While there, I took a plane to the interior and flew into one of the most beautiful valleys in the world. During WWII the Americans were looking for an air base for their efforts during the Pacific war and one pilot noticed a flat area populated by stone-age inhabitants. The Americans landed and discovered tribes walking around with gourds on their organs and carrying stone adzes in their hands. These tribes have never seen a white man before. To say the least they were very deferential.



Once the decision to create the base was made, a plane landed, set up radio communications and soon afterwards plane after plane were landing with all sorts of supplies. These folks had never seen anything like this. By careful observation they noticed that "gods who came from the sky"  would talk to a wooden box and soon planes would be landing bringing food, supplies and many other things they the locals had never seen before.

Within a few years the war ended, the American packed up and left. Soon enough the villager’s shamans started imitating the white "gods" and started talking to a wooden box. The efforts did not work but they did not stop. The "gods" gave it a name - the cargo cult - and variations of them developed in many parts of the world where more technological advanced societies came into contact with an undisturbed ancient way of life. From their perspective the technologically advanced society was all powerful and endlessly abundant. Not only did the "gods"  never lack food or any other material need, but there seemed to be an endless amounts of whatever they required. When one car was destroyed another one driven by the same person would show up a week later.



The famine in Ethiopia was devastating, especially in the more remote areas of the country. Disaster takes a while to develop and this particular situation deteriorated with no one to help. Until one day strange people started showing up and with them came planes unloading food. When there was no possibility of landing, food was airdropped. Shinning new trucks full of food started traversing the few existing roads; distribution centers and clinics were popping up.

In isolated areas, and to people who until then used horses, donkeys, and their backs for transport, "gods" showed up. Who can imagine what kind of stories were being told around the fire in poor villages? What are the myths the children heard growing up.

 

Fast forward another 20 years and all of a sudden new apparitions are on the roads and this time they are travelling slowly enough that you can actually ask them for something…anything. After all they are "gods".  They have infinite amount of everything and the kids have heard stories that in such and such village or town they gave a 1000 birr to a kid or shoes or clothes or ice cream. So why not ask? But as one by one the “gods” pedal by, ignoring you, not even smiling, well damn it, the kids think, ‘I will get their attention one way or another’!

This, then, is my long-winded explanation of why Ethiopian kids throw stones. We cyclists, the "gods" have it all. We can do everything so why are they not giving anything - a birr, a pen, a t-shirt.



On the other hand Jim,  who most of the time cycled in my vicinity, had a much simpler explanation. Jim, a smiling, ebullient extrovert, who in four months of cycling could not bring himself to say one negative word, simply said: "Ah Henry, they are just kids.  They just want your attention.  Talk to them, smile at them, stop and take a picture". Jim did not have one stone thrown at him.   

The thought of saying goodbye to Ethiopia is a sad farewell for some but a welcome change for others. The welcome riders received from the vast majority of this remarkable country has been immense. Despite the poverty that grips the country, friendliness is mostly available in vast quantities and the quality of the coffee, juice and food was enough to melt our hearts. Unfortunately, for many riders, this was tainted by stone-throwing children next to the road. Where most of the roadside supporters were just looking for attention and stone-throwing could be avoided by giving a friendly “Salamno” and “What is your name?”, some children could not be stopped from yielding the whips they are supposed to use on donkeys or doing some target practice with their stones.  The fact that one of the older ladies on tour chased one of these naughty children all the way to their house and told his parents to make sure he receives the punishment he deserves did serve as some consolation for those who suffered because of his good arm on one particular day.



However, when looking back most will hopefully remember the good things that Ethiopia provided. Not one bad cup of coffee, the best juice in the world (no really, we’re not exaggerating) and truly spectacular scenery. Day after day, hour after hour, whenever you think you’ve gone through the beautiful part of the country and you’re about to enter something less scenic, Ethiopia serves up another breathtaking view and another breathtaking day. It has been a highlight because of its beauty, its ruggedness and its toughness.



Thank you Ethiopia, it’s been spectacular. It remains to be seen whether any other country will be able to match your charm.



    --  Catharina Robbertze

Age: 37

From: Oslo, Norway

Profession: Electrical Engineer

Why are you here?

I did the Elephant Highway section in 2011 and wanted to come back for more, this time with a little more excitement and more climbing because I like hills. Also, this section sounded more exotic and it’s my first time in Sudan and Ethiopia.

What has been the biggest challenge so far?

The heat. The first few days in Sudan I just couldn’t keep myself hydrated.

How cold was it in Oslo when you left?

-20 degrees

What do you miss most about home?

Skiing. I do cross-country skiing every day when I’m home and I’m missing out on the ski season now, but there will still be snow when I get back.

What would you have brought with you?

A good solar charger. The one I brought doesn’t work properly.

Tour de France has fields of Sunflowers; Tour d’Afrique has fields of Teff

It is a well-known image for cycling enthusiasts:  The pro peloton of the Tour de France riding by big fields of sunflowers in full bloom.  On the Tour d’Afrique fields of sunflowers are rare, instead riders cycle past huge fields of Teff, the staple grain of Ethiopia. 

Tef, the tiny grain from which the national food Injera is made, is grown all over the country.  When the tour passes through in February the harvest is in full swing and fields are dotted with large heaps of tef, piled high and awaiting winnowing.  Once the tiny seeds are beaten from the stalk men and women both gather then in large, shallow wicker baskets and toss the contents into the air much like you would flip a pancake in a pan.  The heavier tef falls back into the basket while the lighter chaff and dust is blown away by the wind. 



The first week in Ethiopia has been a highlight of the tour for many riders.  The hilly terrain has proved challenging but also beautiful and adds variety to each day’s cycling.  Unlike previous year, the riders have not had much trouble with children throwing stones at them as they ride.  The main reason for that may be the attitude of the riders themselves.  They have gone out of their way to be pleasant and smile and wave at the children as they ride past them, alleviating the need for the kids to get attention by throwing stones. 



Unfortunately riders have not been able to avoid another common mishap in Ethiopia, illness.  Many riders have fallen ill but the gastro-intestinal illness only lasts a few days and everyone has been dealing with it well.  Even our own chef, Jon Shepheard has fallen victim.  Fortunately Njabula, our driver, who is also a cook has stepped up and filled in as head chef while Jon has taken time to rest and recover.  A tour like this runs on its belly and Njabula has made sure it keeps running well. 

Tour mechanic, Douglas Percival set a new staff record for the Blue Nile Gorge time trial when he completed the epic 20km climb in 1:24:30, finishing third overall.

He reports back on taking on one of the toughest sections of the tour on one the custom-made Cinelli TdA bikes.

Riding the large Cinelli Cyclocross bike on an uphill time trial was a good experience.

I removed the knobbly tyres for the race and replaced them with some Schwalbe slicks. I am 6ft2 so found I have to ride the seat post almost above the maximum mark. The 120mm stem allows for a comfortable reach to the bars. A larger width bar like a 31.8mm could possibly be comfier on the hands and perhaps a wider bar too.

The frame is super stiff which I enjoy. When you stand during a climb or in a spring there is no rear end flex when under power. Many times I’ve ridden aluminium frames and had trouble with flex so this was a nice surprise. The frame has a steep head tube angle which was great for the climb. Descending and when standing and sprinting whilst holding in the drops is twitchy at times (perhaps a wider bar would also improve that).

For general cruising on the flats and rolling hills the wheels were great, they roll well and are a good weight – they are not carbon light but strong and do not flex either.

Sadly there is only one water bottle cage mount - two would be good especially when wanting to tour with this bike. All the components are midrange which as a bike mechanic I feel is a good choice. They’re slightly heavier than top end equipment but reliable and easy to service and that’s what you need when on the road away from the luxuries of a bike shop and the perfect workshop.

All-round it’s a great ride capable of doing different terrains and proving to be very reliable.


   -- Douglas Percival

Nationality: English

Age: 35



Favourite flavour of PVM bar:

They’re all disgusting!  If I was pushed I would say caramel nut, but I only eat them in times of extreme need!

Occupation:

I work for a company doing communications in development of DNA but I’m really a Zoologist.

Why are you doing this?

Because I love Africa, love cycling and have never done them both together at the same time.  I love anything that pushes me and this has pushed me to the absolute limit!

Where did you hear about TDA?

I googled “cycling Africa” and it popped up.  I was signed up to do the full tour but then I got a new job and it wasn’t possible.  Now I will be saving so I can do the whole thing.

What do you like most about the tour?

I like seeing new places and exploring new cultures.  I love being nomadic and moving every day.  I love the camaraderie, they’re a brilliant group of people, always looking out for each other.  I also love being challenged.

What do you like least?

In Sudan… the heat.  My body can’t deal with the heat and it was the most soul destroying thing ever!

What do you miss most about home?

Having clean hair!

Is there anything that you wish you brought with you that you didn’t bring?

A front suspension fork for that unpaved stretch in Sudan.

Is there anything that’s just taking up space in your locker?

I brought too much warm stuff - I thought Ethiopia would be much colder.

The convoy into Addis Ababa, marking the end of one of the toughest sections of the tour, brought with it a welcome rest day. As with all convoys, this one was a good introduction to the city and where the Cairo convoy was chaotic (as Egypt is) and the Sudanese one a little calmer under accompaniment from armed guards (as Sudan proved to be), this one went by without permission or incident and riders were greeted with friendliness all along the route (as Ethiopia has been doing for most of the time).



The end of a section on TdA always means happiness with a twinge of sadness as riders get to tick of another part of their journey but the inevitable goodbyes that come with it mean several people are left with a feeling of emptiness. The Gorge sectionals had just become an integral part of the group and saying goodbye to the ladies’ winner of the section Claar Schouwenaar, new time trial record holder Pal Fritsvold as well as Zoe Balmforth and Jo Beunders was no easy task. However, the show must go on and the rest of Ethiopia and Northern Kenya need to be conquered with another couple of new faces joining our ranks for the Meltdown Madness section.



Riders have now travelled through more than half of Ethiopia and though the days seem to be long, the weeks are flying by and the thought that we are approaching the halfway mark of the tour is becoming more of a reality every day. In less than a week another border crossing awaits with a new culture and new landscapes to greet us every day. It’s time to change tyres again and get ready for a whole lot of offroad cycling in the next few weeks. While some are eagerly anticipating the awaiting gravel some are dreading it and things are about to get interesting again.


   -- Catharina Robbertze

Halfway through Ethiopia and the tour has reached the highest point it will be at throughout the entire journey.

The past five days have been a tough stretch for riders with a 100mile day, cycling at about 3000m above sea level for several days and the threat of being pelted with stones ever present. Add to that the continuous bouts of diarrhea and gastro that have been circulating among participants and Ethiopia will certainly be counted as one of the toughest countries on the trip so far.



However, the bigger the challenge, the more memorable the conquering and doing this in a setting as spectacular as Ethiopia means this stretch will also be one of the highlights to stand out upon arrival in Cape Town and for a long time after.



Amongst all of these challenges, the biggest one was probably climbing the Blue Nile Gorge. Riders climbed approximately 2500m in 20km, following switchback after switchback. Pal Fritsvold from Norway showed everyone how it should be done as he made it to the top in 1:17:58, more than a minute faster than the previous record. His accomplishment though was not the only one of the day and every person who made it to the top, whether they were pedalling in their granny gear or pushing their bike for long stretches can give themselves a tap on the shoulder and go back home with the achievement of conquering the Blue Nile Gorge, one of the toughest climbs out there.


   -- Catharina Robbertze

One of the biggest challenges of taking part in the Tour d’Afrique is the social element that comes with it. As the tour leader says every year, “this is not a race, it’s a social experiment”.



And rightly so because spending four months with almost 60 strangers is one of the most challenging parts of taking part in TDA. However, this is also most rewarding parts of this tour and after just one month it is clear that strong friendships have already been formed.



When going through a hard time it is the people around you that help you to get to the other side and almost everyone on tour has already had to rely on a fellow rider to get them through a rough day. Whether a tough day consists of a long, hard struggle with tired legs not wanting to do the work they’re supposed to do or of struggling through a severe bout of diarrhoea it is the people around you that will determine whether your EFI status remains intact and whether your spirits will remain high or not.



Except for the usual facets that determine who you make friends with like age and interests, a major contributor of who you spend the most time with is your cycling speed.  It is because of this that you make friends with people who you might have never done so at home.



After only one month strong friendships have already been formed between a writer from Holland, a veterinarian from England, a student from Australia and an engineer from Ireland. Retired policemen have befriended businessmen, chemists are getting along with actors and singers are getting to know zoologists better and better every day. They’ve gone from friends making small talk to people who aren’t shy to burp, fart and snore in front of each other and know more than most lifelong friends know about each other.



As the tour progresses, fatigue kicks in and and riders move onto harder sections with hills and off-roads these friendships will be tested over and over again. Only time will tell if they will last all the way to Cape Town but if they do, chances are they will last way beyond that to become lifelong bonds and that is what makes this tour all the more rewarding.

   -- Catharina Robbertze