\n

Tour d'Afrique Ltd. | Global Bicycle Expeditions, Races and Tours

  • Icon_social_newsletter_on
    Newsletter
  • Icon_social_rss_on
    RSS Feed
  • Icon_social_twitter_on
    Twitter
  • Icon_social_facebook_on
    Facebook
  • Icon_social_youtube_on
    YouTube

Blog | Bolivia Icon_16x16_light_rss RSS

Borders





``The religious landscape of the Andes is still a country of supernatural rocks, springs and huacas`` -Ronald Wright
                                                                                                       
Geographically speaking the border between Chile and Bolivia seemed arbitrary. Much of our time in Chile was spent following the coast, and in our minds eyes Chile is a country of crashing surf and desert hills. But for our last few days in the country we put the ocean behind us and climbed up into the Andes. The supernatural energy was palpable well before we crossed the border. The ride from camp to the border was a short 37km ride along a road that snaked among smoldering volcanoes, and salt flats.  

With none of the confusion or drama that can often characterize a border crossing we put Chile behind us and said hello to Bolivia. On the Chilean side we dealt with a stern and humourless official. On the Bolivian side we were received, in a spartan office decorated with posters of Jose Sucre and Simon Bolivar, by warm and jovial officials, It was the firs sign of things to come.  

The contrast that was immediately obvious lay in the people. Stout, round faced and smiling. The luxury of blending into the crowd, if only superficially, that we enjoyed in Argentina and Chile is no longer possible. Now our interactions with locals have taken a curious twist; though who is more curious about whom is not entirely clear.  

A short ride among a maze of indistinguishable roads led us to the tiny village of San Juan, where we were received by an older woman who smiled from within, and exuded the warmth and hospitality that we´ve now come to associate with Bolivia. It´s good to be here.

Posted November 29, 2011 by James McKerricher
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


A week in La Paz




Due to the potential for strike in Oruro province the town has been forced to skip a few days of riding and drive straight to La Paz. Our difficult decision indeed, but ultimately the wisest, given all the factors at play. With mixed emotions we loaded into the trucks and a rental van and made the long drive from Salinas Garci Mendonza to La Paz. It was with no small amount of relief that we finally squeezed through the suburb of El Alto and with darkness quickly descending lay our eyes on  La Paz.  

Is there a city in the world that lays before the visitor with such an awe inspiring sweep of display as the city of La Paz? Most cities are entered at eye level; the alignment and scope remain a mystery to the first time visitor before the city is properly explored. But from El Alto we were treated to a Condor´s eye view of the city; a spreading cluster of brick and metal  climbing the steep cliffs of the valley, before making the dizzying descent into the core.  

The lasting impressions and images of the city are only made once entered. From a distance the city seems almost entirely composed of brick, but that brick holds surprising colour; political grafitti wishes Evo long life, and vivid murals portray some of the country´s social issues. Aymara women in bowler hats and Easter egg pink and blue shawls share their toothless secrets as they peddle fresh squeezed orange juice and designer shoes.  

The sensory overload is by no means limited to the visual. The smells of roasted chicken and deep fried potatoes taunt us on every corner. The smell of the market with it´s pungent cheese and fresh fish wafts through the streets and blends with the smell of fresh sticky saltenas. And the sounds! The valley transforms the city into a natural auditorium and at all hours the sounds of the city can be heard; honking horns and sirens, fireworks and live music. There is no excuse for boredom in this city that never seems to stop.  

In many ways the city is a microcosm of everything we´ve come to expect from the continent; colour and noise, political activism, exotic foods, friendly people, adventure and the potential for a great night out. Everyone in the group approached the city differently, each pursuing their own interests. Here´s what rider Bill Clelland had to say about his time in La Paz:   

There could be much worse big cities to be stuck in than La Paz. The mild unrest in Bolivia has forced us to zip across much of the southern part of the country - a logistical triumph for the staff - missing 4 days of cycling to avoid road closures. We find ourselves in a big bustling city of over 2 million for almost a week - a long time in any adventure travel tour.  

So what do 23 active cyclists and 6 staff do in La Paz for a week. For starters Bolivia's "Death Road" was a day tour that most of us took - 3500 meters of descent through rain and clouds in 60 kms - that's right we only descend (have a look at the images on Google and Michel Savoie's helmet cam video link below). Seven of us climbed Huyana Potosi - a 6000+ meter mountain 25 kms from La Paz - a 2 day climb. Many took a tour to the pre Columbian city of Tiwanaku which predates and rivals in sophistication the Inca Empire's technology. Shopping on the streets of La Paz for beautiful alpaca garments, silver jewelry, fresh mangos... anything at all at the market stalls on the sidewalks that overflow into the streets and the frenetic traffic!   Here's the Death Road video: 

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_huIGz568Q  

That's all very well and good for daytime activities, but what happens at night? Could it be that a dozen or so staff and cyclists end up at a local bar/pub to watch an American football game. Then could it be that the bar manager asks at 11:30 "Who wants to dress up as Spiderman?" Would you guess that everyone wanted to dress up as Spiderman? Then would you think that the bar manager announces that he has 30 complete Spiderman outfits. It was a rare night in La Paz!!  

Posted November 25, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


The Salt Flats of Bolivia




Not since the Pampas of Argentina have we traveled for any distance on flat terrain. Those first few days out of Buenos Aires were a blessing in disguise; mentally tiring, but the perfect warm-up for the hills ahead. Those days without hills have become a distant memory as every day since has been a day of roller-coaster ups and downs. What a treat it is to enter the Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt flat in the world, where the sensation of riding over a completely flat landscape only adds to the otherworldly magic of the place.

At 80km the ride was a short one, and given that the entire ride was over absolutely flat terrain one could be fooled into assuming that everyone arrived in camp early in the day. But for a completely flat ride it felt surprisingly, well, not flat. From a distance the land looked even and homogenous, but as we  approached a more complex truth was revealed. Every year the salt becomes saturated during the rainy season; as it dries it forms large hexagonal crystals. These hexagonal crystals form an endless puzzle with a little ridge hedging each piece. As the cyclists rolled along, their wheels on the ridges sounded like a drum- thump thump, thump thump; little speed-bumps with every spin of the wheels.

Many riders observed, in amazement, large holes in the salt, deep and glacial blue and  large enough to swallow a bike wheel. But as the local adage states ``you don´t have to know where the holes are. Just where they´re not.´´ At times it felt as if the salt wasn´t salt at all, but miles of crunchy snow. As  Svend put it, the salt felt like ``Spring ice in Canada: hard in the middle, and slushy at the edge.``

But it wasn´t the crystals or the holes or the slush that slowed the riders progress; it was the opportunity to take unique photos that took up so much time. As the salt flats were one of the most anticipated days on the journey, it was great to see that everyone took the time to soak up the magic of the place, and capture it with bizarre and hilarious photos.

Our camp that evening was in  Coquesa, a small town of stone buildings, sitting on a fringe of green grazed by alpacas. Overhead sat a rugged brown volcano, and beyond us an endless sea of salt. It was a place of fairy-tale beauty, and the perfect place to end a day of surreal sights.

Posted November 23, 2011 by James McKerricher
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Salt Flat Fun




Cool & weird new photos from the Salt Flats in Bolivia.

See them and more here.

Posted November 17, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Hot & windy with friendly truckers and roads that seem to go on forever.




It’s a mind game when you can see the end of the road. Despite the beauty of the desert you seem transfixed with where you are going. The trucks that pass you seem to fade away for the next 30 minutes and you know you’ll get there eventually, but it plays with your head as you pedal away and seem to go nowhere. Pretty much the only traffic is from the mines - endless trucks and red Toyotas - all friendly giving lots of space and a beep of the horn as they pass. One green plant was spotted through the day. I missed that one. Not an animal, not a place to get a drink not even a fly - just sand, heat and wind.

We climbed up to 3000 metres again and dropped 400 metres in the last few kms to camp on the edge of a salt flat, a barren and moon like landscape.

Posted November 09, 2011 by Mark Knight
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Into Bolivia




The riders of the Vuelta Sudamericana are leaving the Chilean coast and heading into the desolate salt flats of Bolivia. See the photos here.


Posted November 08, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Transformation




I have watched the transformation of the Vuelta cyclists - from a slightly fit mixed bag of vagabonds to a group of pretty well honed long distance cyclists. Today I watched a group work together to cheat the wind a little and make a crazy trucking road just a little safer. No real communication passed between them to make this happen. Everyone just assumed a role and then took to it without thought or complaint.



I watched Virginia stop for lunch after 60kms. She and her boyfriend Jason had taken an unplanned detour in the morning (not for the first time!) and it was barely even mentioned upon their arrival. Virginia was bouncing around like she had just had a long morning in bed and they commented that it is only another 60kms in the afternoon. I love it when it becomes ‘only 60kms this afternoon.’



Without noticing the tour riders have changed in their attitude as to what they do on a daily basis. Were are all in camp sitting somewhere in the Atacama desert. The temperature is in the high 30`s, the wind is blowing and there is no shade. Still there are no complaints - just the tent, soup and water routine - followed up by  a not very cold beer.

Posted November 07, 2011 by Mark Knight
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia



Vuelta Sumdamerica 2011 is coming, and as it gets closer, I find myself thinking about some of my favorite places on route. And the Uyuni Salt Flat - or Salar de Uyuni, as the locals call it, is definitely one of them.

Formed as a result of transformations between several prehistoric lakes, it´s the largest in the world (Bolivia is the country of superlatives – you will find many biggest, highest and oldest), and its crust of salt covers a surface of almost 12,000 km squared at an altitude of 3653 meters above sea level. Its crust serves as a source of salt and covers a pool of brine, which is exceptionally rich in lithium. Between 50 to 70% of the world's reserves are in there, and it is so flat that the average altitude variation over its entire area is one meter.



I remember the first time that this huge white desert crossed my path. In the town of Uyuni, the locals had tried to convince me that it was not a good idea to cross the salt flat (and the whole desert after it all the way to the Chilean border is San Pedro de Atacama) on a bicycle on my own. There were lots of stories about people who had tried their luck and were found dead later after getting lost in there, including a very recent one, just a week before.  Well, I knew people who had done it before, and since I had no GPS, satellite phones or anything like that, I had researched a lot about it. It was possible, and it was not that dangerous. All I had to do was to follow the dark track that the 4x4 tours leave behind, and when in doubt, just stick to the darkest one.


But I was still pretty anxious when found myself in the middle of that white giant. In many areas of the Salar, there is not one single mountain or anything in the landscape to be used as a reference, and when you come across many different tracks going in completely different directions, it can be a little scary if you have never been there. My two compasses showed me North on totally different directions (I´ve even heard some stories of GPS batteries getting completely drained in minutes by that place) and the “main route” didn´t always seem that obvious to me, but at the end it was quite safe and easy to find my way.


What an experience to cycle out there. It´s not possible to describe exactly what it is like. It´s possible to cycle across the Salar in one day, but I stayed almost 3 days there riding, camping, playing and taking lots of pictures.  One of the first things you will probably feel like doing is to close your eyes and ride your bike for as long as you can, before you start wondering in which direction you are going and if you can still find the 4x4 tracks again. You could probably ride all day long with your eyes closed because there is really nothing there, and this is one of the only places in the planet where this is possible.  Sunsets were the most colorful I have ever witnessed in my entire life. 


I can go on forever about the Salar, but making a long story short, it´s a ride to never be forgotten.  It´s a very quiet and unique spot, and it does feel like you are in another planet. I consider that the Uyuni Salt Flat itself makes a trip to Bolivia worthwhile. But it doesn´t have to, there are many things about the country that could themselves make it worth a visit. It is a very welcoming and beautiful country, with an amazing landscape and very interesting history, culture and lifestyle. Well, Bolivia itself makes a trip to South America totally worth it. See you there!




Click here for info on the Vuelta Sudamericana 2011 sections. Uyuni Salt Flat will be ridden on the section named “Sea and Salt”, from Antofagasta (Chile) to La Paz (Bolivia) -  November 3 – 16.
    

Posted July 28, 2011 by Cristiano Werneck
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Bolivia

Check out one of the Vuelta riders in Bolivia on YouTube!

Posted November 10, 2009 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook


Adios Bolivia




I left La Paz feeling I hadnt given it a chance! A large sprawling city built in a valley at 3600m with 2mil inhabitants, it is the highest capital city in the world. As we wandered through the cobbled steep streets, to coin a phrase, "it was an assault to the senses" - one can be overcome by the diesel fumes, sewerage and human excrement smells, but also by the crumbling Spanish colonial architecture, the traditionally dressed women selling everything from llama foetuses (good housewarming present), to snickers to fake North Face jackets, not to mention the llama wool jerseys, bright textiles and internet cafes! We were stayiung near "Gringo Alley" so plenty of opportunity to book a tour (jungle, trek, bike the worlds most dangerous road), find a hostal, restaurant or decide on which souveneir to buy (all the stalls sold the same jerseys, bags, toys, jewellery etc). Finding something unique was difficult and came with a hefty price tag!

From a cultural perspecitve, I did manage a visit to the Coca Museum - quite fascinating history and basic exhibitions of the story of the coca leaf and the only musuem open on Sun arvie!

In pursuit of quieter time and to get back in touch with nature, I decided to take a side trip to Coroico, 100kms from La Paz, set in lush tropical mountainous area - advertised for its tranquility and so I had set my mind on a relaxing day by the pool at a quiet hostel with beautiful gardens. On arrival in Coroico, I was pleasantly surprised by annual festival in main plaza with several bands, dancing with men, women and children in traditional colourful costume and copious amounts of beer being consumed!




As a storm and ominous sky was threatening my lazing by the pool, I opted for a cheapy hotel and settled into sheltered ringside seats of procession at pizzeria on plaza and joined in the celebration with several ice cold beers! The festivities ground to a halt when torrential downpours started but I was quite comfortable and dry. A little rain wasnt goint to sopt the party, once the rain dissipated, the bands and dancing resumed. Bolivians sure know how to party!

I had decided to take some time out from the cycle group and set off on a 3 day Jungle tour which entailed cruising down a number of rivers including the Beni river whcih feeds into Amazon basin, walks in rain forest and camping on the banks of the river. We were a small international group of 11 gringos and 7 Bolivian staff. We first started with a long drive along a continuation of the "Death Highway" with stunning scenery and dizzying heights. The boat was a long boat with wooden planks as seats but quite comfortable for appreciating the flora, fauna and birdlife along the river banks and suitable for the shallow sections of the river and odd rapid!




We enjoyed several walks in the rain forest, cooled off with swims in river and waterfall and a highlight was a canopy zip line tour that was exhilirating once I overcame my fear of heights suspended on platforms 200m above ground, the scenery looking over the forest canopy was spectacular! We cruised along Madidi National Park where there are puma, jaguar, wild boar, armiadillo, etc but unfortunately they did not appear for us, only tarantula, capybarra (large rodent like creatures), butterflies, frogs and plenty of birds. Waking up to the sounds of the rainforest was amazing....reminded me of relaxation tapes one hears enjoying a massage / bliss, but no masseur on tour!



We ended in Rurrenabaque where we stayed one night and enjoyed a night with new friends all of which were heading for Pamapas tours in Amazon basin whilst I caught an early morning flight on a 19 seater plant - a surprisingly smooth ride back up to La Paz. I had a few hours to spare and managed to enjoy some more sights, squares and museums (Ethnology a highlight) before catching bus for 7 hr trip to Puno, Peru to join up with cycle group.

I was feeling quite sad to leave Bolivia, a beautiful country with friendly people and stunning scenery and still somewhat untouchedby mass tourism and therefore cheap!


Posted By Natasha Barker

Posted October 29, 2009 by Guest Author
Bolivia 		Btn_share_twitter Btn_share_facebook