There are easy days and not so easy days.  The stretch of cycling from Alba Iulia to Bucharest definitely falls into the not so easy days.  Each and every person on the Orient Express was tested at some point in what unfolded as a very epic stretch.  Between the distances, road conditions and heat there were some very tired bodies moving slowly through the camps each evening.

It was also our most adventurous section and one that will certainly remain in the memories of those who partook.  Our first day out of Alba Iulia was the longest of the tour at about 150km, including a rough dirt stretch at the very end.  For many this was the longest they’d ever cycled.

The day over the Transfaragas pass allowed riders to test their ability on a 30km climb.  This year by chance a top level cycling race was going on at the same time so our participants got to see the pros in action cruising up the climb.  Another new feature this year was staying at the top of the mountain pass at 2000metres.  Our cabana was quite comfortable and the mountain air was indescribably refreshing after the persistent heat of the last week.



The descent from the top of the Carpathians is intense with views from the many switchbacks to the valley below, not that someone cycling 50km per/hour can really take their eyes off the bumpy roads too often to see.  Many of the cyclists stopped in at Vlad the Impalers castle.  The castle itself has deteriorated over the ages but the view from its’ hilltop perch is stunning and the imagination easily wanders to a distant, bloodier time.

Continuing onto Bucharest with still more hills and also higher population and busier roads to deal with we have been fortunate to see many different aspects of Romanian life.  It’s a country completely unique to those around it and the Latin flair is much enjoyed.

Tomorrow we leave Bucharest and head towards Bulgaria.  Our second last country on the trip.  We’ll see the Danube River for the first time since leaving Budapest; who knows, maybe we’ll even jump in for a swim.

We left Budapest early last Sunday morning, with our two new sectional riders, Wolfgang and Rick, onboard.  After 2 rest days in Vienna and 2 in Budapest I think everyone was gung-ho to start a 5-day stretch of cycling.

The first couple days out of Budapest are long and flat with many farm fields to cycle by and more than few bumps/potholes to watch out for on the roads.  Our first stop was in Szolnok, which sits on the Tisza River and Zagyva Rivers.  This area is what they call the “Great Hungarian Plain” As it was a long day most riders arrived in camp to relax but a few did venture back into town to check out a very peculiar cycle bridge which has been built over the Tisza river; rather than just a straight line across the river the bridge goes this way and that way, enjoying it’s short but profound journey over the rapidly moving water below.

From there we continued to Gyula, Hungary, a town with a very relaxed feel and well known for it’s thermal baths.  The day of cycling went smoothly and luckily enough the group enjoyed some pretty nice tailwinds for a large chunk of the day.  Entering Romania the next day was much anticipated and lived up to expectations.  The locals are curious, outgoing and there is a decent espresso to be found in pretty much every village.

Our last 2 days of cycling into the rest day in Alba Iulia were extraordinary.  The roads are starting to get hilly and the scenery is spectacular.   Transylvania offers some great climbs and the day into Alba Iulia had one of 12km and another of about 8km.  All cyclists reached the top successfully and enjoyed the long downhill and flat roads into town.

The next stretch takes us up and over the Transfagaras Pass, which is a highlight of the trip.  A 30km climb into the Carpathian Mountains and then the long twisting descent towards the town of Curtea des Arges.  Let’s not forget Vlad the Impalers castle situation on the south side of the mountain pass as well!

Romania has entered the EU, and the village cows are nervous.

 

As a cyclist pedals ceaselessly along the ever changing pitch of the Transylvanian roads, they may find time to lean their bike against a little shop, in a little village, in the late afternoon with the days’ heat dissipating and camp not too far off.  If they’re lucky they’ll find themselves drinking a cold beverage and watching wide-eyed as a herd of cows slowly meanders into the village, led by 1 or 2 herdsmen, having been out all day eating the local grass.  Not such an uncommon sight in much of the world, but what stands out is that not all the cows belong to the herdsmen, or to any one owner.  In fact each member of the village appears to own 1 of the cows, and they stand along the road, expectantly, as if waiting for their children returning home from school.  When they spot their cow among the herd, they walk over, both lovingly and menacingly with some stick or such, give the cow a gentle whack, and then lead it to their back yard for the night.  For a cow, this is the life.  The EU doesn’t like this, and would prefer if all the cows were sold to 1 owner and sent off to a long term boarding school far away from their village friends.  It would be a shame…  

Speaking of cows/wildlife.  During our trips we try to keep things light hearted and amusing.  No one day is like another, and in this spirit we organized a cyclist vs. bear race up the Carpathian Mountains.  As mentioned in an earlier entry, Adam Birkan is something of a racer, so he was quick to grab this opportunity.  In the cool morning heading up the Transfaragas Pass, which happens to be a 30km climb, Adam and the local brown bear we had arranged to meet up with us on the road, came together like great sportsmen, and with a loud roar from the bear began to race. Though it seemed neck and neck for the first few hundred meters, we all had a feeling that Adam would eventually pull away from the four legged champ, and sure enough he was the victor.  Congratulations to Adam.  Apparently dejected, the bear decided not to race anymore after that.

 

So, having reached Bucharest, the group has successfully completed the Cycling with Vlad section of the trip.  This is the first time for this section (as it follows new roads through different areas of Romania) and the cyclists have much to be proud of.  It is certainly a challenging segment, and to have ridden through the mountains and rough roads of Transylvania is no small feat.  Congratulations to all.

We will not miss the bad tempered automobile drivers, thundering trucks, poor neglected dogs or Luminati, the proprietress at the only accommodation in Dragodana who, no matter how much money we tried to throw at her, refused to let us pitch our tents on her weed infested patch of grass for one night. We never did find out the reason for her vehement stubbornness, but immediately abandoned all manipulation when she relented to the idea of a slumber party in the large, dilapidated reception area. After another one of Chef Jon’s sublime meals, the bleak floor was soon covered with sleeping mats as 45 weary bodies jostled for space and some semblance of slumber.

We WILL miss its unpretentiousness and the gentle, quizzical, salt of the earth rural folk who were so kind to so many of us along the road.

The mercury kept rising, and peaked at 45 degrees on the day we rode into Bucharest. Accompanied by a lone traffic officer on a motorbike, the riders braved the hectic traffic and potholed roads that led to the hotel. Pretty swish by Romanian standards, it had an elevator on the outside of the building which afforded a grand view of Ceausescu’s “Palace of the People”… the second largest building in the world after the Pentagon. Renamed “Parliament Place” after the demise of communism, it is now used for parliamentary sessions but most of the 3000 rooms stand empty. Overall, the city feels a bit like a tired old tart smoking a cigar on top of a demolition site. What was left of the old city – and there are some beautiful old buildings – is hemmed in by crumbling communist era buildings, many of which are covered by enormous fabric billboards. A most intriguing sight to see one crumbling ideology (communism) being gift wrapped by another, flimsier one (capitalism).

We crossed the border into Bulgaria yesterday and spent our first night outside the town of Russe in a beautiful campsite around a lake. It was time for the second Talent Show of the tour and we were entertained and delighted by a handful of the riders who recited poetry and sang ballads and songs. The highlight had to be the performance by Janice and Stewart, who belted out their rendition of ‘My Way’. Feel free to sing along….!

And so the time has come for me to take a trip to Turkey
Along a rugged road, Orient Express, the name is quirky
With maps and written notes I’ve followed each and every by-way
But more much more than that I’ve ridden my way
Detours, I’ve had a few, but then again too few to mention
I’ve closely followed notes which made me lose my direction
But when the camp is near or someone calls “It’s your dish day’
There’s more, much more than this, I’ve ridden my way
I’ve ridden plains and I’ve climbed hills
Passed fields of corn and bars with ales
I’ve read the signs to find the towns
I’ve done the ups and done the downs
I’ve ridden fast but still come last
I’ve ridden my way
In camp I pitch my tent away from those so fond of snoring
Dinner time, a big surprise, but nothing ever dull or boring
The lunch stop every day, a focal point along the highway
But more so more than this, I’ve ridden my way
For what is a man what has he got?
Two sore cheeks and one big spot
To ride the roads he really wants
Not just the usual local haunts
I took the chance to ride from France
And rode it my way

We will not miss the bad tempered automobile drivers, thundering trucks, poor neglected dogs or Luminati, the proprietress at the only accommodation in Dragodana who, no matter how much money we tried to throw at her, refused to let us pitch our tents on her weed infested patch of grass for one night. We never did find out the reason for her vehement stubbornness, but immediately abandoned all manipulation when she relented to the idea of a slumber party in the large, dilapidated reception area. After another one of Chef Jon’s sublime meals, the bleak floor was soon covered with sleeping mats as 45 weary bodies jostled for space and some semblance of slumber. We WILL miss its unpretentiousness and the gentle, quizzical, salt of the earth rural folk who were so kind to so many of us along the road. The mercury kept rising, and peaked at 45 degrees on the day we rode into Bucharest. Accompanied by a lone traffic officer on a motorbike, the riders braved the hectic traffic and potholed roads that led to the hotel. Pretty swish by Romanian standards, it had an elevator on the outside of the building which afforded a grand view of Ceausescu’s “Palace of the People”... the second largest building in the world after the Pentagon. Renamed “Parliament Place” after the demise of communism, it is now used for parliamentary sessions but most of the 3000 rooms stand empty. Overall, the city feels a bit like a tired old tart smoking a cigar on top of a demolition site. What was left of the old city – and there are some beautiful old buildings – is hemmed in by crumbling communist era buildings, many of which are covered by enormous fabric billboards. A most intriguing sight to see one crumbling ideology (communism) being gift wrapped by another, flimsier one (capitalism). We crossed the border into Bulgaria yesterday and spent our first night outside the town of Russe in a beautiful campsite around a lake. It was time for the second Talent Show of the tour and we were entertained and delighted by a handful of the riders who recited poetry and sang ballads and songs. The highlight had to be the performance by Janice and Stewart, who belted out their rendition of ‘My Way’. Feel free to sing along....! And so the time has come for me to take a trip to Turkey Along a rugged road, Orient Express, the name is quirky With maps and written notes I’ve followed each and every by-way But more much more than that I’ve ridden my way Detours, I’ve had a few, but then again too few to mention I’ve closely followed notes which made me lose my direction But when the camp is near or someone calls “It’s your dish day’ There’s more, much more than this, I’ve ridden my way I’ve ridden plains and I’ve climbed hills Passed fields of corn and bars with ales I’ve read the signs to find the towns I’ve done the ups and done the downs I’ve ridden fast but still come last I’ve ridden my way In camp I pitch my tent away from those so fond of snoring Dinner time, a big surprise, but nothing ever dull or boring The lunch stop every day, a focal point along the highway But more so more than this, I’ve ridden my way For what is a man what has he got? Two sore cheeks and one big spot To ride the roads he really wants Not just the usual local haunts I took the chance to ride from France And rode it my way

Nous voici donc depuis 3 jours en Roumanie et ce pays nous a deja fait forte impression. En effet, c est le premier pays reellement depaysant depuis le debut du tour. Les paysages sont vallones,on peut y observer une vie agricole - a l ancienne -, le foin est coupe a la faux et empile en mottes a l aide de fourches en bois. On croise des caleches tirées par deux chevaux, portant une montagne de foin, avec á l’avant, une petite mamie avec un fichu sur la tete, et son mari, tous deux fierement assis… Plus surprenant encore, est quand cette meme dame, sort son téléphone portable de la poche de son tablier ! En effet, la Roumanie semble etre pleine de contrastes : des charettes et des gros 4×4, des vieilles Dacia et la fameuse nouvelle Logan, des routes tapissées de nids de poules et des supéres voies rapides fraichement goudronées…

Autre surprise : nous étions tous inquiets de la présence de chiens errant et donc la plupart d’entre nous ont conscienceusement été se faire vacciné contre la rage! En fait, on croise plus d’oies et de vaches sur la route que de chiens, et ceux-ci semblent plus effrayés que nous !

Enfin, nous voici en repos dans la petite ville de Baile Herculane, station thermale, avec des sources sulfurées (ca sent un peu bizarre…). Cette ville propose donc hotels, locations, piscines, spas, massages… (principalement pour des touristes locaux) et tout cela dans un décor magnifique, au milieu des montagnes !

J’ai donc hate de reprendre la route demain… peut-etre de nouvelles découvertes en perspective !

–Amandine

Nous voici donc depuis 3 jours en Roumanie et ce pays nous a deja fait forte impression. En effet, c est le premier pays reellement depaysant depuis le debut du tour. Les paysages sont vallones,on peut y observer une vie agricole - a l ancienne -, le foin est coupe a la faux et empile en mottes a l aide de fourches en bois. On croise des caleches tirées par deux chevaux, portant une montagne de foin, avec á l'avant, une petite mamie avec un fichu sur la tete, et son mari, tous deux fierement assis... Plus surprenant encore, est quand cette meme dame, sort son téléphone portable de la poche de son tablier ! En effet, la Roumanie semble etre pleine de contrastes : des charettes et des gros 4x4, des vieilles Dacia et la fameuse nouvelle Logan, des routes tapissées de nids de poules et des supéres voies rapides fraichement goudronées... Autre surprise : nous étions tous inquiets de la présence de chiens errant et donc la plupart d'entre nous ont conscienceusement été se faire vacciné contre la rage! En fait, on croise plus d'oies et de vaches sur la route que de chiens, et ceux-ci semblent plus effrayés que nous ! Enfin, nous voici en repos dans la petite ville de Baile Herculane, station thermale, avec des sources sulfurées (ca sent un peu bizarre...). Cette ville propose donc hotels, locations, piscines, spas, massages... (principalement pour des touristes locaux) et tout cela dans un décor magnifique, au milieu des montagnes ! J'ai donc hate de reprendre la route demain... peut-etre de nouvelles découvertes en perspective ! -- Amandine

Even though we are averaging a gentle 100 kms a day, the journey seems to be going by too fast. Over the past week we whizzed through Slovakia and Hungary and have just crossed into Romania. After a fantastic rest day in Budapest, we said farewell to the pastry and coffee route along the Danube river and the Danau cycle path and, now well into the second half of the journey, we are beginning to see and experience the differences between west and east Europe. The manicured landscapes and well maintained and affluent cultures and infrastructure of France, Germany and Austria have given way to a more run down, less affluent feel in Slovakia, Hungary and Romania. By no means poverty stricken, there is a general sense of people living little a little closer to the edge. The physical and psychological scars of the communist era are visible in the run down, sometimes abandoned, ugly concrete buildings that were thrown up in and round the beautiful old cities of Bratislava, Budapest and Timisoara. And the people, while friendly and helpful, seem to be, generally, more restrained and contained. Life is harder here. And certainly hotter. We’re experiencing dry, hot temperatures of between 30 and 35 degrees most days.

I was keen to get a sense from the riders regarding their impressions of travelling through Europe so far, and asked them to share the one thing that has stood out for them…

Win: The cleanliness, scenery and lack of billboards have been outstanding.

Bill: The fact that so many old, ornate buildings in ex-communist countries survived. Interspersed with the ugly communist buildings, they stand out even more.

Phil: Having dreamed of visiting Budapest for many years, the feeling of elation at crossing the Danube from Buda into Pest.

Albert: The general openness regarding nudity in western Europe. Even old ladies sunbath topless!

Jaco: Having my first one litre sized beer in Eggelstadt!

Carl: The 3 B’s: The botel, the bridges and the beautiful girls of Bratislava!

Rita: Experiencing parts of all these countries that most tourists would not get to see on the usual touristy routes.

Mannon: Going to bed after a great day of cycling feeling physically, not mentally exhausted.

Joss: The cammaraderie, bonhomie and support of the group.

John: Riding down the Champs Elyssees pretending I was Lance Armstrong!

Liz: The people are friendly and open. The automobile drivers are courteous. It’s becoming less manicured the further east we travel.

Allan: Putting up my tent again for the first time in 20 years! Fantastic to be the road. Having a ball.

Maureen: Being led into Regensburg by a little old couple on bikes. They took us across the old bridge and led us to the hotel. It was wonderful.

Glen: The friendliness of the people. Everyone is so willing to help.

Kirby: Being able to visit museums in furtherance of my interest in conservation science.

Graeme: Being on a bike all day has brought me sleep again. Since the age of six, I have not managed more than a few hours sleep a night.

Al: The fantastic gardens of France and Germany. I look forward to implementing some of these ideas when I get back home to my garden.

Janice: The fact that biofuel is being sold as an option in regular gas stations.

Mike: Getting used to not working!

Stewart: Cycling across the old iron curtain boundary without so much as an official in site.

Karen: How people rely on their bikes here for general mobility. I saw an old woman in Hungary transporting a hoe on the back of her bike.

John Ross: Getting lost with Karen in Gyor and having the best ice cream of my life! It had espresso in it with coffee beans on the top!

Today, we’re on a rest day in the Romanian town of Timisoara (tee-mee-shwa-ra) A few of us did a walk about the inner city with Sebastian, our local contact, who eloquently described what it felt like to be part of the revolution that toppled the Ceausescu regime between 15th and 25th December 1989. He whet our appetites for Bucharest, where we’ll get to see some of the more bizarre and excessive manifestations of the crazed Ceausescu couple in a few days time.

Even though we are averaging a gentle 100 kms a day, the journey seems to be going by too fast. Over the past week we whizzed through Slovakia and Hungary and have just crossed into Romania. After a fantastic rest day in Budapest, we said farewell to the pastry and coffee route along the Danube river and the Danau cycle path and, now well into the second half of the journey, we are beginning to see and experience the differences between west and east Europe. The manicured landscapes and well maintained and affluent cultures and infrastructure of France, Germany and Austria have given way to a more run down, less affluent feel in Slovakia, Hungary and Romania. By no means poverty stricken, there is a general sense of people living little a little closer to the edge. The physical and psychological scars of the communist era are visible in the run down, sometimes abandoned, ugly concrete buildings that were thrown up in and round the beautiful old cities of Bratislava, Budapest and Timisoara. And the people, while friendly and helpful, seem to be, generally, more restrained and contained. Life is harder here. And certainly hotter. We’re experiencing dry, hot temperatures of between 30 and 35 degrees most days. I was keen to get a sense from the riders regarding their impressions of travelling through Europe so far, and asked them to share the one thing that has stood out for them... Win: The cleanliness, scenery and lack of billboards have been outstanding. Bill: The fact that so many old, ornate buildings in ex-communist countries survived. Interspersed with the ugly communist buildings, they stand out even more. Phil: Having dreamed of visiting Budapest for many years, the feeling of elation at crossing the Danube from Buda into Pest. Albert: The general openness regarding nudity in western Europe. Even old ladies sunbath topless! Jaco: Having my first one litre sized beer in Eggelstadt! Carl: The 3 B’s: The botel, the bridges and the beautiful girls of Bratislava! Rita: Experiencing parts of all these countries that most tourists would not get to see on the usual touristy routes. Mannon: Going to bed after a great day of cycling feeling physically, not mentally exhausted. Joss: The cammaraderie, bonhomie and support of the group. John: Riding down the Champs Elyssees pretending I was Lance Armstrong! Liz: The people are friendly and open. The automobile drivers are courteous. It’s becoming less manicured the further east we travel. Allan: Putting up my tent again for the first time in 20 years! Fantastic to be the road. Having a ball. Maureen: Being led into Regensburg by a little old couple on bikes. They took us across the old bridge and led us to the hotel. It was wonderful. Glen: The friendliness of the people. Everyone is so willing to help. Kirby: Being able to visit museums in furtherance of my interest in conservation science. Graeme: Being on a bike all day has brought me sleep again. Since the age of six, I have not managed more than a few hours sleep a night. Al: The fantastic gardens of France and Germany. I look forward to implementing some of these ideas when I get back home to my garden. Janice: The fact that biofuel is being sold as an option in regular gas stations. Mike: Getting used to not working! Stewart: Cycling across the old iron curtain boundary without so much as an official in site. Karen: How people rely on their bikes here for general mobility. I saw an old woman in Hungary transporting a hoe on the back of her bike. John Ross: Getting lost with Karen in Gyor and having the best ice cream of my life! It had espresso in it with coffee beans on the top! Today, we’re on a rest day in the Romanian town of Timisoara (tee-mee-shwa-ra) A few of us did a walk about the inner city with Sebastian, our local contact, who eloquently described what it felt like to be part of the revolution that toppled the Ceausescu regime between 15th and 25th December 1989. He whet our appetites for Bucharest, where we’ll get to see some of the more bizarre and excessive manifestations of the crazed Ceausescu couple in a few days time.