After 7 very fun and exciting weeks of cycling across Europe, the Orient Express cyclists successfully completed their journey by cycling to the shore of the Bosphoros in Istanbul! Our last days greeted us with very high temperatures and lots of hills, but nothing would stand in the way of the determined set of riders, who have continually looked out for each throughout the trip, and everyone made sure that no one would be left behind. In the early afternoon of July 18th the group boarded the Naim Baba boat, which then took them on a pleasant cruise down the Bosphorous towards the Ortakoy district of Istanbul and our hotel. While sipping beers on deck and feeling the wind against them, the cyclists reminisced over the time spent together these last months, and perhaps dreamt of future cycling tours that they may endeavor to partake in. So, warm wishes to all our Orient Express participants, and a thorough congratulations on cycling the entirety of Europe. Until the next ride…
This was my third time guiding a group of cyclist between Paris and Istanbul, and this was a finish to remember. In years past we have convoyed the last 23 km down the Bosphorus into Ortakoy. Istanbul and its suburbs were not designed with cyclists in mind. But this year we arrived in style.
The final stage of the tour was a 52 km ride through the lush rolling hills of Turkey. We collected all 41 riders and staff where the hills descended to meet the sea. As each rider rolled across the finish line there were hugs, tears, and photos to commemorate this monumental achievement. Over the last 50 days these two wheeled adventurers traversed 4000 km across eight European countries. When all were present and after quick feed we boarded our fine vessel, the Naim Baba, and sailed into this spectacular international metropolis. While battling traffic its much more difficult to appreciate the magnificence of the waterfront. But this year we were kick’in it on the upper deck of our private boat embracing our cycling comrades with drinks in hand. The voyage lead us past castles, mosques and affluent real estate of the world’s rich and famous. From our dock in Ortakoy it was only a 2 min walk through the pedestrian mall to our hotel to unpack all the gear for one final time. With a group of fifty checking in and parking bikes simultaneously is chaotic, but the madness was short-lived.
Our final banquet dinner was in Taksim at a bizarre restaurant garden, overgrown with lemon trees. The evening was filled with a fabulous feast, speeches and a slide show to reminisce on this epic journey, truly a grand finale.
Many of the participants are staying in Istanbul for several days to explore the history and culture of this city which has been the capital of several empires. Others had a rushed departure, but a select few will continue to peddle east all the way to Beijing and I wish them nothing but sunshine and tailwinds. The conclusion of these tours invokes a contradiction of emotions; pride, for a monumental personal achievement and sorrow to say goodbye to new friends who we’ve shared the moments with. I look forward to the next time our paths will cross.
Til then, keep the rubber side down.
This was my third time guiding a group of cyclist between Paris and Istanbul, and this was a finish to remember. In years past we have convoyed the last 23 km down the Bosphorus into Ortakoy. Istanbul and its suburbs were not designed with cyclists in mind. But this year we arrived in style.
The final stage of the tour was a 52 km ride through the lush rolling hills of Turkey. We collected all 41 riders and staff where the hills descended to meet the sea. As each rider rolled across the finish line there were hugs, tears, and photos to commemorate this monumental achievement. Over the last 50 days these two wheeled adventurers traversed 4000 km across eight European countries. When all were present and after quick feed we boarded our fine vessel, the Naim Baba, and sailed into this spectacular international metropolis. While battling traffic its much more difficult to appreciate the magnificence of the waterfront. But this year we were kick’in it on the upper deck of our private boat embracing our cycling comrades with drinks in hand. The voyage lead us past castles, mosques and affluent real estate of the world’s rich and famous. From our dock in Ortakoy it was only a 2 min walk through the pedestrian mall to our hotel to unpack all the gear for one final time. With a group of fifty checking in and parking bikes simultaneously is chaotic, but the madness was short-lived.
Our final banquet dinner was in Taksim at a bizarre restaurant garden, overgrown with lemon trees. The evening was filled with a fabulous feast, speeches and a slide show to reminisce on this epic journey, truly a grand finale.
Many of the participants are staying in Istanbul for several days to explore the history and culture of this city which has been the capital of several empires. Others had a rushed departure, but a select few will continue to peddle east all the way to Beijing and I wish them nothing but sunshine and tailwinds. The conclusion of these tours invokes a contradiction of emotions; pride, for a monumental personal achievement and sorrow to say goodbye to new friends who we’ve shared the moments with. I look forward to the next time our paths will cross.
Til then, keep the rubber side down.
It has definitely been an easier trip for me the second time around; not worrying about getting lost and knowing what to expect certainly makes it much easier to plan for what is coming.
Feeding 50 people from a campsite is always challenging though, regardless. Whether it is standing over a stove in the hot sun, or trying to source out commodities that people in the group have become accustomed to and which simply aren’t available in each country we pass through. It makes it all worth it to see the smiles and get that handful of ‘thank you’s’ at the end of the day.
So here we are 2 days from the finish and I’m trying to figure out what to make for dinner tomorrow night as some sort of grand finale. Maybe a buffet, or a spit-roasted lamb, I think there is a fish-monger up the street…I should probably get back to work. Til then.
-Jonathan Shepheard
It has definitely been an easier trip for me the second time around; not worrying about getting lost and knowing what to expect certainly makes it much easier to plan for what is coming.
Feeding 50 people from a campsite is always challenging though, regardless. Whether it is standing over a stove in the hot sun, or trying to source out commodities that people in the group have become accustomed to and which simply aren't available in each country we pass through. It makes it all worth it to see the smiles and get that handful of 'thank you's' at the end of the day.
So here we are 2 days from the finish and I'm trying to figure out what to make for dinner tomorrow night as some sort of grand finale. Maybe a buffet, or a spit-roasted lamb, I think there is a fish-monger up the street...I should probably get back to work. Til then.
Jonathan Shepheard
Yesterday we rolled into Istanbul, the final destination of our 4000km cycling tour. It was a beautiful stage, only 65 km but very hilly. The route led us through several small villages and on the crest of each hill you would catch a glimpse of the sea or the city in the distance. It was an exciting road to ride as it twisted and climbed and then descended to our gathering point in Sariyer, a suburb on the Bosphorus. From this point we rode in convoy the last 20 km into the capital. Coming into the city along the water offered spectacular scenery; castles, fisherman, yachts and the city sprawling through the hills on the far shore. In comparison to the other European cities we’ve visited I was amazed by how green Istanbul is. We finished our ride at the Ortakoy Princess Hotel where we had some celebratory bevies before we unpacked the support trucks for the final time and got checked in. The hotel is in a great location. It was just a short walk down to the waterfront where we hosted our banquet dinner. We were on a rooftop patio with great views of the boats, fireworks and crowds of people enjoying the evening. We shared stories, toasted our successes and then headed out to visit other local establishments.
Although this tour has many sectional riders who only ride a part of the route, there is a core group who have been together from Paris to Istanbul. Watching the dynamics change over the course of two months is always intriguing, as people learn so much about each other, build incredible bonds with complete strangers and then head off in their own directions. Its not always the destination but the journey which creates the experience of an expedition of this extent. Even the greatest experience is meaningless unless you have someone to share it with. Only our fellow cyclists from the Orient Express 2007 will ever be able to relate to our stories and memories of this incredible trek. I hope our paths will cross again. Until then, keep the rubber side down!
Sunshine and Tailwinds…
Welcome to Turkey. We have reached the country of our final destination.
Although I have never been here before it seems so familiar. I think I’m having flashbacks from Egypt. From camping at the local football stadium, the broadcast prayers to Allah, to interactions with the regional cycling association, things here are very similar. I am always amazed at how a political boundary often marks a dramatic change in geography. It's not just a random line on a map. Ten km before the Turkish border we were traveling through rolling hills of dense hardwood forest and ten km past, the terrain became extremely arid. Dry hillsides of scrubby bushes, blowing dust clouds and geckos running past your front wheel. We are now enjoying the final rest day of the tour in the small town of Kirklareli. This is not a major tourist destination but right now the cyclists need rest more than anything else. The heat wave they have endured during the past 3 stages has left them exhausted. Two days ago the temperature hit 48 degrees. But as tonight is refreshingly cool I believe the heat wave has finally broken.
When we left Varna we continued to follow the coast of the Black Sea for the first day. We passed through several touristy beach towns; Ozbos, Bryag and Nesebar. Nesebar was a strange place, an ancient city that has changed hands many times. It has been occupied by the Thracians, Romans, Byzantines and the Bulgarian Empire. But in each takeover the city was never destroyed. As a strategic naval port and thriving fishing village it has a history dating back over 4000 years. About 2000 years ago geologic events caused a dramatic rise in the water level of the sea and although the ruins I saw were impressive there are many more beneath the waves, making it a popular scuba destination. Today the city has incorporated a bizarre mix of old and new. Modern homes built on ancient foundations and historic cathedrals neighboured by tacky souvenir shops and gelato stands.
Our second riding day took us inland to the town of Malko Tarnovo, a small border town with very limited facilities. But luckily we stayed just down the street from a bar with a fantastic swimming pool to help us beat the heat. Our ride into Turkey was short and the border crossing was expensive, but relatively hassle free. Now its only three riding stages and 250 km to our finish line on the Bosphorus. We have been joined by Henry and Miles who are here preparing for the inaugural Silk Route Expedition. There are a couple of Orient Express riders who are going to continue on with them from Istanbul right across Asia to Beijing, China…. CRAZY!
The 4,000km Orient Express Bicycle Tour 2006, which started two months ago in Paris has come to a successful end.
Another year has come to a wonderful finish in the wonderful city of Istanbul and a certain level of satisfaction is setting in.
Our group was almost twice as big as it was last year and the contrasts don't end there. I really believe every part of the trip improved from the previous year and we are excited to see it continue to improve in year 3, year 4, and year 20.
There's nothing else like the Orient Express Bicycle Tour, and there's something unique and special about every year and every group of riders that take part...
Yesterday's arrival into Turkey was a huge contrast from last year, when our tour - in its first year - was an unknown to the people of Kirklareli, our first stop in Turkey. This year, with the wonderful help of our local contact Cem Manglay, we have been treated like heroes. We were met at the border by representatives from the municipality, police, jandarma (regional police), and even an ambulance - all of which escorted us to Derekoy where many of the riders took up the offer from the municipality to be driven to some facinating nearby caves.
Then upon entering Kirklareli, police were found all over this small town pointing us in the right direction and controlling traffic. The police also set us up in a camp downtown that was guarded all day and all night and had police security barriers surrounding our tents.
And if that wasn't enough, the Governor of Kirklareli is hosting a dinner for us tonight at new restaurant in town. WOW! It has all been a little overwhelming at times, but definitely appreciated by these tired cyclists who can finally start to treat this as a vacation as we only have three more short cycling days left before Istanbul. Hopefully we can talk the governor to join us for a few kilometers tomorrow...
As noted yesterday our tour went off as planned. On way to Edirne Cem came along as guide and provide commentary. Traveling over rolling plains. A few hills would be work on a bike. Two lane road (Turkish say one lane) with no center line and a good driver at reasonable speed, say 50 mph max. Gypsies - the people around here who travel in horse carts - traders, good musicians, special area to live near Erdine, don't travel widely. Much investment in Bulgaria is by Russian mafia businessmen.
Itinerary in Edirne - First to historic train stn. Now not active but being renovated as part of Thrake Univ (1982) (Thrace) - was part of Greek territory in nice neighborhood - traded part of Turkey for it. Kara-agec area (sp?). Bridge over Meric (merinch) River with seat for Sultan to see sunset. We had our photo taken sitting on it. Brief stop at ruins of synagogue - no longer Jewish community here - was 25000, few in Kirk now. Were 2 communities - sepharats from Spain, other from Europe. Old wooden houses near centre are different and some with intricate woodwork. Drive by Macedonian castle was covered by firemen's tower, then uncovered. Selimaye Camii mosque. 8 large (15 ft) cols supporting great dome. Mostly red carpet. How do you describe a large mosque - see the photos later. 15th century. White marble from island in Maramare used in hammam (baths) and mosques. Gold leaf used in decorations on ceiling. Palace ruins destroyed by Turks when Bulgarians attacked - this is beside wrestling arena. (1561 - Suleyman). Remains of palace kitchen (mosque in background). Trakya university Sultan Bayezid II Health Museum began operation in 1488. This museum was another mosque and restored as the hospital museum. Music was used to treat the mentally ill in this museum since the 16th century. Gardens and building are very attractive.
After lunch quick walk through big bazaar and back up old shopping street. Stops at ice cream store for some (not me - still full of lunch) and candy store - almonds and chocolate. Met back at minaret steps of Eski Camii - oldest mosque - 1414, but did not visit inside. On to highest point overlook at 1918 Balkan War Museum. Cem (correct spelling of guy I've been calling Jim) helped work on this museum during his service commitment. On to home now at 3:30 - half hour later than our commitment. Not to be pessimistic, but from here weather does not look promising and bush camp awaits us tomorrow we've heard.
Back at hotel started organizing. Had local food today so went for quick pizza tonight. Need my rest though got to stretch out on back seat of bus and take a nap on return.
That's it for today. Have to pack. Pray for three days of good weather for us.
