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Ryan's Reflections



The section between Cusco and Lima is called the Gringo Trail. I questioned Randy about the name and he gave me a very simple answer (That is where all the gringos go). Peru is the most touristy of all the countries and they go to Puno to see lake titicaca, Cusco for Machu Pichu and they also end up where we are now in Nazca to see the Nazca lines. They also go to Lima which is where we will be in in a week from now. While we do go to most of the places where all the gringos go, we spend most of our time in the space between.

The 6 day stretch from Cusco to Nazca is a half day bus ride for most tourists. The extra time means that we see these parts in unusual detail. Interactions with shopowners in small towns, seeing the animals along the route, cycling up beautiful mountains and along rivers are important parts of our experience. We camp in the desert at high altitudes where temperatures are well below freezing and during the day scorching hot. Along the route we play in a game of volleyball at a tollbooth and are invited to play soccer by the local kids of negro mayo. Experiences few have while travelling.

When we pass through small towns along the gringo trail, the kids always yell Gringo!! It isnt because they are welcoming us to their section of the gringo trail. The gringos who usually pass through are hidden on a bus. We are out in the open and these are likely the only times they have ever seen white people passing on a bicycle. A  mystery and a miracle to them. Sometimes I like to suprise them and yell Gringo as I pass through. They look at me upset like why did you steal my line.

In Puno, Cusco or Nazca you arent going to be called a gringo. Many of the local people have set up their lives to accomodate the gringos and attract their money. So being called a gringo on the gringo trails means you are doing something new. I think of it as a reminder of the challenge of the journey...a type of travelling few ever have done before on this trail.

  -  Ryan Stotland

Posted November 09, 2009 by Guest Author
Peru | Ramblings | Tour Updates
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