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In Udaipur




Our first night out of Jodhpur was at Fort Dhamli, a quaint little property of 10 rooms set in the small village of Dhamli. It’s run by Inder – a well spoken guy with an engaging smile who pulled out all the stops for our group. Fort Dhamli, and the village Dhamli don’t appear on our GPS or our maps. It’s off the main road, and it’s a gem that many a traveler likely miss out on. The rooms all face into the courtyard which is just large enough for some mandarin orange trees, a few benches and his dog (didn’t catch it’s name). The stairs take you up to the 2nd floor which is open to the sky. Each room is clean, and their is hot water once the wood fired boiler heats up. The food was as unique as the fort. We had wild bore grilled of a fire, potatoes, rice, cauliflower, and coconut coated sugary goodness with tea and coffee for desert followed by a night cap of rum that Inder cheerfully poured generous portions of. 



On from Dhamli saw us conquer the first significant climb of the tour so far. We have been travelling through the desert in Rajasthan for most of our time, and yesterday we climbed up towards Kumbholgarh Fort – an impressive fort set high above the desert, and some of the only elevation in the area. We climbed just under a 1000 m on the day. The scenery was a fantastic change from the landscape of the previous week. On tough climbing, we saw monkeys darting across branches, streams flowing downhill against us, and turning each corner revealed more impressive scenery.



And just as the temperatures have started to climb the past several days, it began to cool off with every metre higher we ascended. So perhaps one of our last crisp morning rides was had the next day as we peddled downward towards Udaipur – past quiet and humble village homes with stone walls that follow alongside us the whole way. They are like how I recall from the Cotswolds in Britain – neatly piled rocks planted firmly in place without mortar – just stacked in a way that they support each other. The roads through much of the ride were smooth for a change, and so it added to the enjoyment of the village life in the hills.

Posted February 01, 2012 by Shanny Hill
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Adventures in the Mundane




I spent some time this morning having a handle installed on our whiteboard – I cart this board here and there everyday, writing out the days directions for our group, and the handle will make that just a little easier. That’s a hell of a boring thing in normal circumstances, but on the road... on the Indian Adventure even the mundane becomes an adventure, or at least a chance to appreciate how things get done in India.  

In fact, I would argue, that all our daily activities, both important and routine, are more rewarding when accomplished in this foreign place, and through methods that are unfamiliar to us. Riders are asking directions to places they have never been to people they have never known before, and don’t share a common language with. Riders order a soft drink or chai in a village that might have never before been visited by a travelling cyclists (well except maybe last year).
 

There was nothing special about the installation of my whiteboard handle – I would like to tell you that the drill used short-circuited and caught fire, or that a goat chewed through the electric cord, or that there was some spectacular motorcycle accident behind me as handle met whiteboard. No.. nothing of the sort.
 



I brought the board to the shop, a cluttered and convenient place, piled to the ceiling with things – lengths of hose, chicken wire, sheet metal, screws, axe handles, axe heads, door handles. I explained what I needed, pointing to one of the handles attached to a display. I showed him on the board where I needed them installed, and with a punch he set a guide hole for the screws, and as I held the handle in place one of the shop staff used a screw driver, not a drill, to secure the handles in place. Yes, yes not much to say, but I guess that was the point, I needed something done, and it got done – for the equivalent of a dollar. It was cheaper, and faster, than I could have had it done back home. 
 

Our interactions and observations are not always over the top, and wild. Often times it works, handles get installed, people go about their daily lives in unfamiliar ways, and sometimes we sit, and watch the screws go in and see it working. The adventure, for me, is both – it’s the moments that make you shake your head and laugh, and these moments where you learn a little while watching, listening, and taking the time.

Posted January 28, 2012 by Shanny Hill
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Progress Report from India




We are having a very relaxed day today. Those are nice for a change.


                          home for the night

We are in Pushkar after a short 60 km ride from Roopangarh Fort where we spent last night. As a break from our normal buffet dinners – though they have been great thus far – we are all heading into town tonight to Baba’s Rooftop Restaurant – no, not Baba our local translator. It has a nice view of the lake, and the many bathing ghats along its edges.



Pushkar is another of India’s many tourist hubs. We are fortunate to get to experience these places while also going well off the tourist trail on most days. It is nice though to have a day to see the sights, be a tourist and to take it all in – scams and touts aside. Pushkar – the story goes – was created when Lord Brahma dropped a lotus flower from his hand. Three lakes were formed in the middle of the desert where the pedals landed. It has become one of India’s most sacred places, and is also known for its camel fair – apparently the largest in the world. (credit Rough Guide to Rajasthan Delhi & Agra)



The adventure continues with a tough day tomorrow and then a cruise into Jodhpur – the Blue City.
 



Posted January 24, 2012 by Shanny Hill
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The first day of the Indian Adventure is over. More to come...




If today you were saying “I am so glad I decided to do this tour”, tomorrow you might be saying “What the hell am I doing here?”

These were the words of wisdom I shared with the riders at tonight’s meeting. Today was a pleasant day... short ride, easy exit from Agra, and nice introduction to cycling in India over 60 km ending at a Bird Sanctuary and a nice hotel with wifi even. How civilized. Well, that’s all about to change.

One of the biggest challenges in running a tour such as our Indian Adventure, is the difficulty finding a hotel to stay each and every night at a reasonable distance from the last. It doesn’t always work out perfectly, and tomorrow is a good example of that. We will cycle 130 km over rough village roads – doubling our first days distance. But spirits are high and the riders seem ready to tackle this first big challenge I am throwing their way.

It’s a unique journey they are on, and this small group with large ambitions are one day in to this 53 day challenge.

Posted January 19, 2012 by Shanny Hill
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Shanny Scouts




For the 2012 Indian Adventure we have made some changes to improve upon an already challenging and rewarding cycling tour.   My first job upon arriving to India (after some time contemplating time travel) was to check some of the proposed changes that we had mapped out. In particular I was to drive the stretch of riding from the Konkan Coast to just past Hampi – 5 new stages of the tour. Last year, we contended with a little more traffic than we would have liked, after leaving the coast. And one of the major problem areas was in the town of Hospet – only 15 km from the wonderful sites at Hampi, we stayed in Hospet in 2011. This time we will stay right in the village of Hampi itself and avoid the nutty town of Hospet altogether – no problem right?



Well, after a day in Mumbai, we drove south and starting the necessary scouting. The first few days went strangely well. I found new routes that are night and day from what we rode on last year – rough they may be at times, but we won’t have nearly as much traffic and congestion as we had to deal with in 2011. After our new rest day in Belgaum will be in a small town called Badami. Not much of a town, if it weren’t for the amazing cave temples a few kilometres from where we stay.



When you look up at them, the rocks alone are impressive – giant boulders delicately balanced upon one another. And as you climb the steps, the cave temples come into better view and you can grasp just how much labour went into creating this – quite remarkable. I spent a night in Badami, and then drove another two days of cycling route to Hampi via the little town of Ilkal – well off the tourist trail here, but Hampi brings us right back. And what a tourist site it is. One rest day is not enough to see it all. Hampi is a vast area littered with some truly stunning temples of the Vijayanagara Empire.

So by the time I arrived to Hampi, I was feeling pretty confident – two more days of the tour to scout and then I could fly to Delhi and the scout job is done.



Hampi is a truly spectacular site, but what I discovered, ironically it is an island of beauty in an ocean of ugly iron ore mining and production – with Hospet being at its centre – so I thought. I headed east away from Hospet, and away from the iron ore mining areas... perhaps. But alas, it seems the roads near Hospet were only a glimpse into this industrious area, and after the day’s I have a full understanding of its scope... it’s a damn huge mining and steel production area. The road I drove has been pounded into rubble by giant rattley trucks that barrel along them at top speed. They fight for space among the buses, auto-ricksaw and cars – on steep roads with no guardrails. They kick up dust from the red earth that coats everything on either side of the roadway. They fill the air with screeching horns, and generally make it a fairly unpleasant place.



So as a result, I give my pre-tour scouting mission an 8 out of 10. We found an excellent and much safer route for the 4 days to Hampi, but failed – on this attempt – to improve our route for the two days after our time in Hampi. But, of course, there is always a solution to these setbacks. It will reveal itself to us in time.

The 2012 Indian Adventure Bicycle Expedition departs from the Taj Mahal in Agra on Thursady January 19th.

If you missed this year's edition you can register online for the 2014 event anytime.


Posted January 17, 2012 by Shanny Hill
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Time Travel





Sitting in the transit lounge at Abu Dhabi International Airport, looking at the ceiling, I imagine commercial time travel in the future won’t be too dissimilar than the long haul flying of today. Whatever technology that allows us to travel through time will no doubt leave us feeling delirious, disoriented, tired, hungry, and detached. Similar to how I feel right now.

In the movies, it’s always this near-immediate transition. A car speeds back to the future. A machine twirls with lots of noise and flashes, and in an instant it has appeared in another time. But real time travel won’t be that quick and easy – mark my words. I bet you can expect to have to endure all sorts of bureaucratic processes. Timestamps, Time/Space Passports. Depending on how far back you go, surely the costs go up exponentially.

If you are emigrating to the past – you will need a letter from your future self giving consent and have it notarized by a lawyer who specializes in time law. And who owns time? Has it been divvied up like our earth has been today – separated ownership by various nations around the world? Or are large chunks of time privately owned? While seated in your seat in the time machine, will there be some fancy seatback display the shows you a visual representation of your journey through time – your time machine, as it crosses the many-layered fabric of decades and/or millennia?

And will time travelling travelers be subjected to the same classic scams world travelers do today. Will pick pockets hang out around Time Terminals? Will smugglers, prostitutes, dealers, lurk nearby? Will guide books for different periods of history pop up?  A huge black market industry of time smugglers, and history corrupters will crop up, and in response governments will spend millions upon millions to protect their citizens of both the present and the past... and the future I guess. Convoluted stuff. The Timelines (like airlines, that’s time machine companies – you got that right?) will up their fares and add in ‘future contamination tax’ and activists will protest that time travel is immoral and will unravel the fabric of our fragile world.

Two hours left till the final leg of my journey to Mumbai. The ceiling here looks both futuristic, yet with a hint to the culture of this place, and its past. Travel – the kind that takes you far from where you started – can feel strange.  


Posted January 10, 2012 by Shanny Hill
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Researching a Cycling Trip to India




Whether you are participating in the Indian Adventure in 2012, or have some plans to cycle independently in India, here are 3 excellent online resources to get you started.



1. Indian Cyclist Network  About: Share rides, pics, blogs. Interact with fellow cyclists from across the country. Take part in discussions and more!

This highly active and friendly online Indian cycling community is a great place to meet friends for a ride, find out what the best routes are, or chat about cycling.

 



2. IndiaMike

We want you to enjoy your time here and have fun and enjoy travel.  Each and every person is always full of fear and trepidation while venturing into the world of travel and we would like to make it easier and lend you a helping hand.  We have a community that supports it's member and encourages the need to travel and to seek out new experiences and to open our minds to the world out there.
  




3. Burrp!

Current event listings (in print and online) for several major India cities. Find bars, restaurants, and shopping spots all in one place. The oddly named resource is well worth checking out. An excellent and popular general travel forum to ask any and all questions you might have on travelling in India.  

Do you have some other suggestions of places to research your next Indian cycling adventure? Let us know.

Posted December 23, 2011 by Shanny Hill
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Inspiration from India




For those about to embark on our 2nd annual Indian Adventure, or for those considering it, here are three wonderful and inspiring items we found this past week online.

1.
The 'Cycle Sister'



This is a wonderfully written article by the Globe and Mail's Asia correspondent Stephanie Nolen. It's the story of a nun who has worked with female children born into the lowest of the low caste in a small village in a poor state in India, and how she has given them hope against the odds.

2. FlashMob Mumbai



This entertaining 'sponteaneous' dance mob took over CST train station in Colaba, Mumbai. The beautifully designed UNESCO World Heritage building where it happened used to be known as Victoria Terminus and was changed to honour Indian hero Chatrapati Shivaji. It was also one of the scenes of the terrible Mumbai attacks in 2008, and the producers of this video staged the event close to the three year anniversary, turning the sad day into a joyous one. Enjoy!

3. Cyclewaale Calender



The humbling Cyclewaale Calender (meaning 'Cyclist' Calender) has popped up online from SUM Net India. It features everyday labourers and students in India and their bicycles, and short descriptions for each - how old they are, how long they have been using their bicycle, and for what work it is used for. For those of us on the Indian Adventure, it is impressive and hopefully inspiring to see what is achieved everyday in India by so many. Our 100 km / day on our lightweight multi-speed bikes should be easy in comparison to these hard working cyclewaale.

Posted December 20, 2011 by Shanny Hill
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The Unexpected




On our Indian Adventure cycling trip, you can always expect the unexpected. Nothing is ever predictable. Like this.

Posted December 08, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
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Ready to Roll in 2012

With a few recent entries, we are happy to announce that the 2nd annual Indian Adventure is confirmed and ready to roll out of Agra on January 19, 2012!

Here’s a brief photo essay to get you excited for the adventure that awaits you…

Taj Mahal
In the early hours of the morning, even before the buzz of activity on Agra's busy streets, we will cycle to the Taj Mahal to mark the official starting point of this fantastic journey.

quiet roads
Then we soon leave the city, and head out onto quiet roads.

local cyclist
Along the way, we will share the road with other cyclists.

more livestock
There will be livestock.


monkeys in the road
And wildlife. (But not as much as last year. We have made some route changes.)

double decker express
Sometimes we share the road with interesting vehicles like this one.

Marine Drive Mumbai
We will cycle into fascinating cities like Mumbai.

coastal views
We roll along the Konkan Coast. (Word of warning... there are lots of hills along the coast!)

Hampi, Karnataka
And we will see ancient sites like Hampi.

relaxing at the finish
And mark the end of this 4,000 km cycling odyssey at the town of Kanyakumari with the beautiful statue of a tamil poet looking over your shoulder.


Spaces are still available if you are contemplating the journey. Take a few moments and read about our adventures last year, or read about the tour participants already registered for the 2012 India Adventure.


We hope to see you in 2012!


Posted October 14, 2011 by Tour d'Afrique Ltd.
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